This is a great 5.7+ climb, perfect for someone who wants a good intro to crack climbing. It does get harder as you go over the ledge about 3/4 of the way up, but is an interesting crack climb after that point because you have two to work with and experiment with. The beginning can be a little bit tricky if your not used to the cracks. Some will try to subvert the crack an look for handholds, but there are only smears out to the sides. Basically, if you get through the first 25 feet, and get a feel for the technique, then you should be able to easily get up the route.
So I finally led this clean. After a strong season in Joshua Tree onsighting a couple of the harder 5.10 trad routes I was able to make a redpoint of the infamous Carey Corner. But seriously this thing is way hard.
By Goodhue From: Boulder, CO May 20, 2009 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
Amazing climb. Absolutely the hardest "5.7" I have ever done. I will give it 5.8, even though I have definitely cruised easier 5.9s.
With that said, this is my favorite climb at Ragged so far. Definitely need some legit crack technique. It'll make you work for it, that's for sure. Saved my #4 for the top, but didn't end up using it.
By David Friend Jul 18, 2011 rating: 5.7+5a15V+13MVS 4b PG13
I led this, staying in the crack to place pro. Definitely felt difficult for the grade, especially in the small hands crux near the top. Then my girlfriend flew up it on top rope, using the faces and stemming.
I think the crack is 5.8. If you don't have to place pro and can use the faces, this is 5.7.
By Brian From: North Kingstown, RI Jun 7, 2012 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
I'm not sure where John Peterson got that FA info but it was reported in the 1964 YMC guidebook to be "FA: 1958 J. Reppy and F. Carey." That makes sense since it is called Carey's corner.