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Unsorted Routes:

Carey Corner 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type: Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Wiessner, 1935
Page Views: 3,335
Submitted By: John Peterson on Feb 22, 2006
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Me finishing Carey Corner

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Description 

This is the prominant dihedral just right of the Skull and Bones block. Climb through a fist-sized crack to the dihedral and the up the corner to the top.


Protection 

Standard Ragged rack



Photos of Carey Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Approaching the final corner
Approaching the final corner
Me, on Carey Corner, shortly after falling and hitting the ledge because my belayer couldn't see me. It was a short fall though.
Me, on Carey Corner, shortly after falling and hit...
Carey Corner Upper
Carey Corner Upper
Doug starting up Carey Corner
Doug starting up Carey Corner
Looking up Carey Corner
BETA PHOTO: Looking up Carey Corner
Comments on Carey Corner Add Comment
Show which comments
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jan 30, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This is the hardest 5.7 I have ever climbed, including at the gunks.

By Jim O'Brien
From: Branford, CT
Oct 31, 2008

On the top 5 list of sandbagged climbs, the upper dihedral goes in the 5.8+ range.

By CODJOL
Nov 11, 2008

This is a great 5.7+ climb, perfect for someone who wants a good intro to crack climbing. It does get harder as you go over the ledge about 3/4 of the way up, but is an interesting crack climb after that point because you have two to work with and experiment with. The beginning can be a little bit tricky if your not used to the cracks. Some will try to subvert the crack an look for handholds, but there are only smears out to the sides. Basically, if you get through the first 25 feet, and get a feel for the technique, then you should be able to easily get up the route.

By Mulligan
Mar 16, 2009

This is the hardest 5.7 I have ever done. I haven't actually led it clean but the last time I tried was 2 years ago, so Im gonna go back this weekend and try again.

By Mulligan
Apr 24, 2009

So I finally led this clean. After a strong season in Joshua Tree onsighting a couple of the harder 5.10 trad routes I was able to make a redpoint of the infamous Carey Corner. But seriously this thing is way hard.

By Goodhue
From: Boulder, CO
May 20, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Amazing climb. Absolutely the hardest "5.7" I have ever done. I will give it 5.8, even though I have definitely cruised easier 5.9s.

With that said, this is my favorite climb at Ragged so far. Definitely need some legit crack technique. It'll make you work for it, that's for sure. Saved my #4 for the top, but didn't end up using it.

By David Friend
Jul 18, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

I led this, staying in the crack to place pro. Definitely felt difficult for the grade, especially in the small hands crux near the top. Then my girlfriend flew up it on top rope, using the faces and stemming.

I think the crack is 5.8. If you don't have to place pro and can use the faces, this is 5.7.

By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Jun 7, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I'm not sure where John Peterson got that FA info but it was reported in the 1964 YMC guidebook to be "FA: 1958 J. Reppy and F. Carey." That makes sense since it is called Carey's corner.

By John Peterson
Jun 7, 2012

The FA's are out of the green book.

I can shoot John Reppy an email and ask. My understanding is that he had talked to Wiessner a found Wiessner had done some of his presumed first ascents.

I placed the entire guide as a comment on the Ragged Mountain page. You'll note that at the time they didn't know about Wiessner's ascent of Vector either.

By Indigo Dragon
From: Fairfield, CT
Apr 27, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

My partner who followed me on this proclaimed "this is the hardest climb i've ever done." Yes, he is dramatic, but seriously... 5.7?