Caressing Lovely Lumps  V0

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Type:  Boulder, Alpine Consensus:  V0 [details] FA:  Jordan Hill, John Gallagher & Mike Gallagher New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  COEveryman on Jun 6, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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The majority of these boulders are located within the Mt Evans Wilderness Area, which is regulated & patrolled by the US Forest Service. Climber MORE INFO >>> The majority of these boulders are located within the Mt Evans Wilderness Area, which is regulated & patrolled by the US Forest Service. Climbers should be on their best behavior, practice Leave No Trace, and please abide by these requirements: - Approach Areas A, B, & C via the Chicago Lakes trail (from Echo Lake). - Wilderness Permits are required for all visitors to any federal Wilderness Area. Permits are free and self-issued. A kiosk is located at the point where the Chicago Lakes Trail departs from the reservoir, at the entrance to the Wilderness Area. - Group size: travel in federal Wilderness Areas is limited to groups of 15 people or less. If you find yourself in an area, say around the Dali Boulder, where there are more than 15 people, please disperse. There are plenty of excellent boulders elsewhere. - Minimize creation of social trails. None of the trails surrounding the bouldering area are officially maintained by the USFS. Ample access trails currently exist, please stay on the existing trails, and do not create any more trails. - Do not destroy vegetation. This is a fragile alpine environment, with a short growing season. It can take vegetation decades to recover from damage. Place crash pads judiciously, and keep brushing to a minimum. Before adding new lines, considered the damage that may be caused by additional foot traffic, pad placement, etc. - Chalk is un-sightly to non-climbers. Please avoid chalking up boulder problems that are visible from the Chicago Lakes Trail, and in general, keep chalk use to a minimum. Brush all tick marks off after every sesssion. Use containers that prevent chalk spills. If you do spill your chalk, clean it up. - Stashing crash pads is expressly forbidden by the USFS. Any pads found by USFS personnel will be confiscated. - Noise: This is a wilderness area (did I mention that?) that is enjoyed by many, mostly non-climbers. The last thing passing hikers want to hear are your self-indulgent f-bombs, I-Pod speakers, grunting, etc. In fact, most other CLIMBERS don't want to hear any of these things either. The easiest way for us to loose access is to elicit complaints from other user groups. - Dogs must be leashed at all times. Consider others when deciding whether or not to bring your dog, specfically considering that dogs like to scare away wildlife, and most other users would prefer not to have the wildlife scared away. Obviously, clean up after your dog. Remember that we are guests in this area. Be respectful of other users and the USFS Rangers that manage this area. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Start with a left hand sidepull on the obvious, left-facing flake with feet on the ledge near the ground. Crank up to underneath the roof and get your feet established on the generous slab. Follow the leftward-trending crack under the roof using the well-spaced crimps and locks until you crack pinches off. From here you enter the tricky crux by establishing your foot on the small edge on the now-much-steeper-slab and get a right hand in the last opening in the crack and move the left hand to the first of the lovely lumps (rounded ridges) near the lip with the furthest right (and farthest back over the lip) lump having the best traction. Balancy movement and a good foot way out left once you are established on the lumps will get you to the top.

Location 

Follow the trail past "Maker's Mark" and "Ben's Arete" down and around the 90 degree, left turn around the big boulder northwest of those problems. The north face of this boulder has an obvious roof with a crack underneath it. The problem starts off the trail with hands on the obvious, left-facing flake.

Protection 

Pad on the ground, pad on the rock on the other side of the trail, and a spotter. Clean falls right onto the trail.