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Careno Crag is a major formation low in Icicle Creek Canyon. Another of the south facing crags with little shade, Careno can be baking hot and comes into season relatively early. The majority of the climbs here are multi-pitch trad lines, with a few noteworthy bolted climbs. Numerous ledges across the massif can have the unfortunate effect of forcing you into short, wandering pitches, but also create great potential for linkups of various lines. Classics include the Regular Route and the Bale/Kramar route, but many other fine pitches are worth the time and trouble of exploring.
To reach Careno, park at the Snow Creek trailhead. For the easiest approach, hike back along the road for approximately 0.1 miles, looking for a driveway with a sign "Hikers and Climbers Enter at Your Own Risk". A previous approach on "public?" land seems to have been lost, and this driveway is now the easiest access to public land at the base of the cliff. Hike straight up the driveway to a retaining wall and look for a trail heading up and right to the crags above. Follow the trail up past several minor crags to the base of Careno (you will pass a sign when you enter public land soon after leaving the driveway). The approach to Careno takes about 30 minutes. As with all access on private land, walk softly and treat the owners with respect.
15 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Careno Crag:
Careno Corners 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 4 pitches, 450'
Exotic Dancer 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Cool Struttin' 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Heave Ho 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
A Swingin' Affair 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 100'
Bale/Kramar route 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 450'
Regular Route 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 4 pitches
Pumpline 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Careno Crag
Pumpline 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : ... : Careno Crag
For years, this has been one of the Icicle’s trad testpieces at the grade. Thin climbing up a thin corner with some thin gear leads to a brief but burly off-fingers crux pulling a bulge. Hope you can make the exit look elegant. I couldn’t.This climb was written up in a 1988 Rock & Ice article by Alison Osius, who’d once spent a summer guiding for Leavenworth Alpine Guides (LAG) and had come back to revisit old friends:"For my last day, Katie [Kemble] trudged me up a loose hillside to a ‘wild ...[more] Browse More Classics in WA
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