Careno Crag is a major formation low in Icicle Creek Canyon. Another of the south facing crags with little shade, Careno can be baking hot and comes into season relatively early. The majority of the climbs here are multi-pitch trad lines, with a few noteworthy bolted climbs. Numerous ledges across the massif can have the unfortunate effect of forcing you into short, wandering pitches, but also create great potential for linkups of various lines. Classics include the Regular Route and the Bale/Kramar route, but many other fine pitches are worth the time and trouble of exploring.
To reach Careno, park at the Snow Creek trailhead. For the easiest approach, hike back along the road for approximately 0.1 miles, looking for a driveway with a sign "Hikers and Climbers Enter at Your Own Risk". A previous approach on "public?" land seems to have been lost, and this driveway is now the easiest access to public land at the base of the cliff. Hike straight up the driveway to a retaining wall and look for a trail heading up and right to the crags above. Follow the trail up past several minor crags to the base of Careno (you will pass a sign when you enter public land soon after leaving the driveway). The approach to Careno takes about 30 minutes. As with all access on private land, walk softly and treat the owners with respect.
Browse More Classics in Careno Crag
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Careno Crag:
Careno Corners 5.9 Trad, 4 pitches, 450 feet
Exotic Dancer 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Cool Struttin' 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet
A Swingin' Affair 5.10b Trad, 100 feet
Regular Route 5.10b Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
Killer B's 5.10c Sport, 70 feet
Pumpline 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Featured Route For Careno Crag
Regular Route 5.10b WA : Leavenworth : ... : Careno Crag
This is the "main" route up the Careno Crag as implied by the name. The thin crack at the start may be the most remarkable feature of the entire lower wall. After sweating through the balancy but short first pitch (crux), climbers will be rewarded with two more nice pitches of easier but fun and clean dihedrals. There is an obvious walk-off after the third pitch, but the route continues for another pitch....[more] Browse More Classics in WA