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Careno Crag
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A Swingin' Affair T 
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Careno Corners T 
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Finders Keepers S 
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Just a Gigolo T 
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Wraptor S 

Careno Corners 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 450'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,941
Submitted By: ScottH on Aug 19, 2007

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Careno Corners 5.9

Annual Raptor Closure at Bridge Creek Wall area MORE INFO >>>


This is an enjoyable climb to the upper tier on Careno Crag. The only drawbacks are a wandering line near the beginning, forcing short pitches, and a short section of 3rd class terrain. It is possible to link this route to the Bale/Kramar, Foo Killer, and any of the routes above the upper tier.

P1. Begin right of the Bale/Kramar, climbing a steep crack up, then right. Gain a sloping rail and traverse left to a belay under the large roof (shared with BK). 5.9

P2. From the belay, head left around the roof then follow an easy gully up and right on 3rd class terrain to a large ledge and the base of a wide corner. The hardest moves on the pitch are avoiding the very large and loose blocks near the belay.

P3. Grunt and sweat up an imposing wide corner for ~30' where it narrows to hands and fists. Cracks deep in the corner and on the adjacent wall offer additional holds and gear. 5.9

P4. A steep crack pulls over a small lip, then breaks left. Alternatively, climb the wide crack to the same point. Follow broken terrain up and left to the upper ledge. (5.8-5.9). A nice variation goes up a finger crack/face to the belay on top of Foo Killer instead of continuing left on easier ground. From here, connect with the regular route to gain the large ledge. 5.9


Start immediately right of Bale/Kramar, near the left edge of the rock.


Gear to 4". I was happy to have both a 3.5" and 4" camalot. 1st pitch is bolted, all other belays on gear.

Photos of Careno Corners Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Seth Lundeen Rocking the 3rd pitch of Careno Corne...
Seth Lundeen Rocking the 3rd pitch of Careno Corne...

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By Serge Smirnov
May 2, 2016

P3 is more straightforward if you bring at least one of {#5,#6}. I brought both and saw no need for a #4. Probably any combination of 2 of those 3 cams would work.

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