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Routes in Hades Heights
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[Redacted] TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bad Rock T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Biceps TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Biceps - Var: Right Wall T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Biceps - Var: Thumbthing T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Biceps - Var: Thumbthing Else T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Billy Goat Boulder V2 5+ |
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Bulge, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bulging Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Butterfly TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Camp Daze TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Camp Permit TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Can't Permit TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Carderock Low Traverse V5 6C |
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Chris Wex Don Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Chris's Goat TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crack, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Cripple's Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crippling Paralysis TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Crucifixion T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Crystal Ship TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Desperation TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Don't Fall on the Hikers V0-1 4+ |
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Easy Layback T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Eliminates T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Face To Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Fifi T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fingernail TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flutterby TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Friction Layback TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Garbage Chute, The TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Golden Staircase TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Green Bucket TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hades Heights Girdle Traverse T V1-2 5 |
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If You Have to Climb in Maryland TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Incipient TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Iron Cross TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kindergarten TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Krypton V5+ 6C+ |
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Laundry Chute, The T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a |
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Leonards Lunacy T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mad Dog TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Make A Wish T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Merv's Nerve TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Norris' Nipple T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Norris's Nipple T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Nose, The TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Not So Gneiss V4- 6B R |
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Nubbin (Nubble) Face TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Photogenic T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pincushion Cube V3 6A |
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Pre-Kindergarten Boulder T V-easy 3 |
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Serenity Syndrome TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Silver Spot TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Silver Sucker TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Slot It Out V3 6A |
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Spider Walk TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sterling's Double Cracks TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Talk about a view V0-1 4+ |
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Top Roping at Carderock with Tots TR 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Triple A TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trudie's Terror T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Walk On By T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wish Come True T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Yellow Jacket TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Zig Zag TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Boulder, 500 ft (152 m) |
| FA: | ??? |
| Page Views: | 5,561 total · 55/month |
| Shared By: | Dan Hickstein on Dec 7, 2015 |
| Admins: | Frances Fierst, C S |
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Description
This thing is EPIC! The Carderock Low Traverse is a ~400-foot endurance climb with two 5.12 cruxes, three 5.11 cruxes, and endless beautiful 5.9/5.10 climbing. ...and it almost never gets more than 4 feet off the ground!
Here is a video that summarizes the route: youtube.com/watch?v=ZgOm9l9…
The Carderock Low Traverse is my best attempt to traverse as much of the Carderock formation as possible, while staying as low to the ground as possible. Currently, it doesn't traverse the entire cliff, but is crosses about 50% of Jungle Cliff and the entirety of Hades Heights, for something like 400-feet of fairly sustained climbing. The crux is perhaps v4 or v5, but I think of it as a mid 5.12 due to the length.
While I have sent the currently described version of this traverse (starting from the X-face and working right), The Complete Carderock Low Traverse (a traverse of the entire cliff) is still a work in progress. However, I am not sure that it is possible to climb it in the same "bouldering style" of the climb described here. The terrain to the left of the X-face has one section that seems impossible to climb (at least for me) without a rope.
Anyway, here is the beta:
Start at the left side of the X-face (just left of "The X") and start traversing to the right. Stay low around the corner, climbing the awesome v4 boulder problem, Tea and Scrumpet (the first crux of the route, and perhaps the crux for those who don't have it mercilessly wired). Continue across the face, staying reasonably low. Shortly past Beginner's Crack, round the blunt corner, passing the tree. Traverse right and upwards, climbing an awkward boulder problem called Shinbone. We call it 11+, but it's never once felt that easy. Your feet get very close to the boulder, but keep then from touching it! Round the sharp arete and rest for a while. Continue traversing right across somewhat blocky terrain. There is a ~5.10 crux here with difficult-to-find holds. Also, there is a steep section where you cross over a deep pit with some fall potential (5.9R). Finally, right before the walkdown is what I consider to be the crux of the traverse. You round a corner and scrunch down very low to the ground, slapping a flat ledge (5.12c). Then climb upwards and kick back to the boulder behind you. After this, continue traversing right to the end of the cliff. Basically, you just follow the Hades Heights Girdle Traverse, but staying as low to the ground as possible. I go kinda high at the rounded corner close to the river (Cripple's traverse crux), and it feels about v3, but lower variations exist at harder grades.
Here is a video that summarizes the route: youtube.com/watch?v=ZgOm9l9…
The Carderock Low Traverse is my best attempt to traverse as much of the Carderock formation as possible, while staying as low to the ground as possible. Currently, it doesn't traverse the entire cliff, but is crosses about 50% of Jungle Cliff and the entirety of Hades Heights, for something like 400-feet of fairly sustained climbing. The crux is perhaps v4 or v5, but I think of it as a mid 5.12 due to the length.
While I have sent the currently described version of this traverse (starting from the X-face and working right), The Complete Carderock Low Traverse (a traverse of the entire cliff) is still a work in progress. However, I am not sure that it is possible to climb it in the same "bouldering style" of the climb described here. The terrain to the left of the X-face has one section that seems impossible to climb (at least for me) without a rope.
Anyway, here is the beta:
Start at the left side of the X-face (just left of "The X") and start traversing to the right. Stay low around the corner, climbing the awesome v4 boulder problem, Tea and Scrumpet (the first crux of the route, and perhaps the crux for those who don't have it mercilessly wired). Continue across the face, staying reasonably low. Shortly past Beginner's Crack, round the blunt corner, passing the tree. Traverse right and upwards, climbing an awkward boulder problem called Shinbone. We call it 11+, but it's never once felt that easy. Your feet get very close to the boulder, but keep then from touching it! Round the sharp arete and rest for a while. Continue traversing right across somewhat blocky terrain. There is a ~5.10 crux here with difficult-to-find holds. Also, there is a steep section where you cross over a deep pit with some fall potential (5.9R). Finally, right before the walkdown is what I consider to be the crux of the traverse. You round a corner and scrunch down very low to the ground, slapping a flat ledge (5.12c). Then climb upwards and kick back to the boulder behind you. After this, continue traversing right to the end of the cliff. Basically, you just follow the Hades Heights Girdle Traverse, but staying as low to the ground as possible. I go kinda high at the rounded corner close to the river (Cripple's traverse crux), and it feels about v3, but lower variations exist at harder grades.
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