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 ADVANCED
Higher Wire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Card Shark S 
Easy Pickins S 
Jack of Hearts S 
King of Spades S 
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Card Shark 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: RMWright, 1999 FFA ?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 264
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Feb 19, 2002

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BETA PHOTO

Upper Canyon access closed - 8p Mar. 22 - 5p Mar. 28 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start on the right side of the cave. Solve a very fingery and powerful start leading into some excellent stone. Continue on the flake crack system, moving right for the last three clips of Jack of Hearts. The FFA went to an unknown climber in the Spring of 1999.

Protection 

Dozen draws and a rope.


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By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Sep 19, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Two of the holds in the low crux leading up to the drilled mono are flexing and about to go. I think that would make this route just about impossible, unless they formed new holds. This line would be cool if someone took a ton of effort to clean the loose chips and flakes on the first half of the route and reinforced a few holds with glue.
By Steve Annecone
From: boulder
Sep 20, 2013

Hmmm, "drilled mono"?! I didn't see anything about that in the description above. Is this considered an acceptable way to develop routes in Clear Creek?
By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Sep 21, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I'm not 100% sure it's drilled, but it's a way to describe it since it looks that way. I hope this doesn't turn into a drilling debate, but there is a history of drilled pockets in sport climbing areas in the '90s. I'm not a history buff, but ethics do change over time and it is not acceptable anymore, but I'm not gonna hate on a route if it's already there.
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