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Phoenix
Select Route:
Carabid T 
Drill 'Em and Fill 'Em S 
Fred On Air S 
Hissing Llamas S 
JT's Route S 
License To Bolt S 
Phoenix S 
When Llamas Bolt S 

Carabid 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Chet Sutterlin, Bob Bury, 1977
Page Views: 390
Submitted By: JohnK on Apr 22, 2008

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Description 

If not for difficult to place protection and runout sections Carabid would make an excellent first gear lead. From the standard start climb a crack system up about 100 feet and then use a hand traverse right to reconnect to the crack system. Continue up a few feet and then traverse left about 20 feet to a set of bolt anchors. A 50-meter rope will reach the anchors for Drill 'em and Fill 'em or Phoenix. A second rap reaches the ground. A 60-meter rope will reach the standard start then down climb to gully to the ground.

Location 

Start 20 feet right and 20 feet above the base of Drill 'em and Fill 'em by scrambling up the obvious gully to the standard start - a level spot below a discontinuous crack system. An optional start begins 20 feet to the right of Drill 'em and Fill 'em and below the standard start at a obvious crack system. The optional start adds about 20 feet to this already fairly long one-pitch route.

Protection 

Gear to 2.5 inches but mostly small to medium nuts and cams plus standard-length runners.


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By another Chad
Oct 28, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Carabid starts roughly thirty feet to the right of Drill 'em and Fill 'em and follows a lumpy crack system that angles left. Climb twenty feet to a brushy ledge and then another one-hundred twenty feet to the top of the climb. There's a black sling and a ring around a small pinnacle which can be used as an anchor. A three-bolt anchor is located left and down from the sling anchor which is in a less convenient location but is less nerve racking.

Bring your partner up. Cleaning this line on rappel totally sucks (which I had the misfortune of doing in a rainstorm). A single rope rappel will get you to the anchors atop Drill 'em and Fill 'em. One more rappel will get you back to the ground.

Carabid isn't particularly hard to protect. It's so slabby though that falling would almost always be hazardous. A standard rack of singles up to 3" worked well. Having a set of hexes or an extra set of large nuts would be helpful. Putting runners on just about every piece will mitigate the rope drag.

Be vigilant about loose rocks as anything knocked off near the top will bomb the people on the right half of the Phoenix Buttress (which is almost always busy). It's not a chossy climb but you'll run into some loose rock. Lastly, make sure your belayer is wearing a helmet.


Chad