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 ADVANCED
Turret Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Car Stud S 
Escorndido S 
Fashionably Uninvited T 
Fishook T 
Guide's Route T 
Jaws T 
Junior Jules Doinks a Digit S 
Knup T 
Mexicanist, The S 
Schooldaze T 
Sloppy Shoes S 
Sunshine Slab T 
Upper Arch S 
Upper Lip T 
Velvet Habel T,S 
Welcoming, The S 
White Stress T,S 

Car Stud 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bill Schmausser & Wife, 2000
Page Views: 976
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Jun 22, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Brenda and Tobey at the base of Car Stud.

Description 

This route is located on the wall to the right of Guide's Route and left around the corner from the start of Jaws. There are five bolted routes on this wall that range from 5.8 to 5.10. This is the route on the far right side.

Excellent friction climb up a solid granite face. There is a sizeable runout between the 1st and 2nd bolts (with significant ground fall potential) that can be protected with a #2 camalot in a horizontal seam midway between the two. The crux is this face moves just above the 3rd bolt. Above the 4th bolt, the climbing eases significantly to the anchors. Either rap with one rope (50m will work), or traverse left and set a top rope on just about any of the other routes. Good route while waiting to get on Guide's Route.

Protection 

Five quickdraws plus anchor. A #2 Camalot protects the runout between bolts 1 and 2.


Photos of Car Stud Slideshow Add Photo
Bro - givin' some insight to the onsight.
Bro - givin' some insight to the onsight.
At the top of the unknown 5.8 on Turret Dome.  The hole takes a #2 Camlelot to protect between bolts 1 and 2.
At the top of the unknown 5.8 on Turret Dome. The...
Bro - just before the crux area. This should give a good vantage of the need to prepare for a mixed climb - handsized cam is ok.
Bro - just before the crux area. This should give ...
Car Stud and Sloppy Shoes bolts -- both can use the same anchor.  There is also another sport route 10 ft left of Car Stud.
BETA PHOTO: Car Stud and Sloppy Shoes bolts -- both can use th...

Comments on Car Stud Add Comment
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By Larry Earley
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 19, 2003

This is an excellent granite friction route. The climbing is easy near the cam placement. Crux is right at third bolt and requires two thin friction moves. Fun finish to anchors. Three stars for this moderate sport climb on clean rock.
By Larry Shaw
Jun 15, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun climbing with one or two .8 friction moves to easier climbing above.
By Ryan Carlino
May 9, 2005
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Checked out the new bolted area on Turret Dome on Sat. We saw the 5 bolted routes. This "Unknown 5.8" is the second from the right. To the right is Sloppy Shoes (5.10) which shares anchors with this one. Heading left is the 5.9. These three are all in one area. The next two are up a steep gully, which ends at Guide's Route.

The description above is correct - 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with lower/rappel-friendly oval links. Good climbing and good bolts.Bring the #2 Camalot. Total height of this route is about 60'. You could scramble to the anchors of the 5.9 from the top. The next route after that is way further. We TR'd the 5.9 without changing the anchors and had a MAJOR sidepull toward the top - it'd be better to just move the anchor. Good Stuff.
By Ryan Carlino
May 9, 2005
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

One last thing: between this route and the adjacent 5.9 to the left, just below the anchors, is a spare bolt. I don't know what it's for, unless you want to use it to climb from one climb to the other.
By Bill Schmausser
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 18, 2006

The name of this climb is Car Stud 5.9. Put it up with my wife in 2000.
By Buff Johnson
Mar 20, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Referring to the description provided - this is a mixed-pro climb for a lead; not a runout sport climb.
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 25, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Good climb. Bring the #2 cam, otherwise it is well protected by the bolts. As of Sept 2010, the bolts and anchors all still look great. Thanks for putting up the route, Bill!