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Capulin Canyon

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Capulin Canyon 


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Location: 35.77476, -106.37764 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 22,154
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Josh Smith on Oct 26, 2013
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Looking up canyon to to the Upper Wall and Capulet...
This is a wilderness area that adjoins Bandelier National Monument. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Capulin canyon in the Dome Wilderness has crack climbing on cliffs up to 200 feet tall. The rock is a relatively high quality welded tuff that lends itself well to gear placements.

The good rock climbing in Capulin canyon begins approximately three quarters of a mile above the Bandelier boundary and extends up canyon on a single section of cliff band. See area marked in yellow on the map below. The first published reference of rock climbing in Capulin canyon is from the 1995 rock climbing atlas “Rock-N-Road,” by Chockstone press, which includes a single paragraph on the area. However oral history puts climbing activity in Capulin back to at least the early 1980s. Climbers who visited prior to the 2000s are encouraged to correct or add names/grades or other information.

The total number of climbers has been very low partly because of the impact the 1996 and 2011 fires, and partly because of a lack of information on climbing in the area.

History and character of climbing in the Dome Wilderness:
The 1996 Dome Wilderness fire greatly affected this area of the canyon, increasing the difficulty of access and changing its pleasant forested nature. However some level of use continued after the area re-opened following that fire. This pattern repeated with the 2011 Las Conchas fire.

Climbing in the Dome Wilderness presents many challenges. Getting to the cliffs requires hiking 700 feet to the bottom of Capulin canyon, then hiking back up to the base of the cliffs on the opposite side of the canyon. The descents/ascents are steep and rugged. This section of Capulin tends to be extremely hot in the summer, and the complete lack of trees means no shade after noon on the south facing cliffs that have good climbing. Access to the canyon is blocked for a portion of the winter due to the FR289 seasonal closure, and trailhead access requires a high clearance vehicle. The rock itself is relatively soft when compared to granite or basalt and thus requires that the climber have a fairly high level of experience.

Because the cliffs are in the Dome Wilderness, power drills are prohibited and the cliffs are not conducive to bolt protected face climbing as one finds at other climbing areas in the Jemez anyway. Again, that means that a fairly high level of experience is required to climb in the area.

The quality of the cracks themselves is what makes the climbing extraordinary. The climbing is on par in quality to what one finds in Indian Creek or around Moab. However, the Dome Wilderness cliffs will never achieve anything like the popularity of some of the Moab climbing areas because of the limited size of the cliff band, remoteness, and difficulty of approach, but at this time they offer a unique crack climbing experience in New Mexico.

Climbing in Capulin Canyon can be very rewarding but should not be taken lightly. The rock varies in softness from the bottom to the top of the cliff. Climbers should expect to encounter and be prepared to deal with loose rock on any crack in the canyon. Helmets should be worn at all times. The standard warnings about climbing being a dangerous activity apply doubly here: climb cautiously, tap anything that looks loose, and be very careful.

All anchors in this canyon were placed without the use of power drills, and the climbing in this area has been approached with the wilderness guidelines in mind. Climbers should work together to continue to ensure that everyone who visits is aware of the rules for climbing in wilderness and abides by them. About three quarters of a mile below the main Capulin cliff is the Bandelier boundary. Climbing is explicitly forbidden in Bandelier.

Those wishing to establish new climbing routes should talk to the current active climbers for lessons learned concerning hand drilling in soft rock. The vast majority of the established lines in Capulin were climbed ground up, onsite. There are no sport climbs in the canyon.



Getting There 

Capulin is in the Dome Wilderness in the Jemez Mountains. Approach from Los Alamos or Albuquerque via SR4. Turn onto FS Road 289. Take this to the Saint Peter's Dome road (signed). Drive until you can see the canyon on your left. Park at the very last tree on the road. The fire lookout should be easily visible to the south east.

Approaching the cliffs: See the beta map. The marked “Capulin Trail” has not existed in the Wilderness since the Dome Fire in 1995. Climbers generally approach the cliffs via the purple dotted lines. These approaches minimize erosion. The #1 approach goes down a rocky draw and is the shortest. However one short rappel is required in addition to some steep down climbs that are a bit dangerous. Approaches #2 and #3 are on ridges, which nearly eliminates erosion, but they are steep and can be somewhat challenging from a hiking perspective. Approach 3 follows a fire line to the canyon rim and then and drops down a steep shoulder on a crude trail that predates the fire. All can be followed with cairns.


Climbing Season


121 Total Routes


['4 Stars',26],['3 Stars',41],['2 Stars',33],['1 Star',13],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',11],['5.10',44],['5.11',53],['5.12',12],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Capulin Canyon:
Ephemeral Epitomist.    5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Upper Wall
Glasnost Crack   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Upper Wall
Zozobra   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Upper Wall
Chimney Sweep   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper Wall
Goodbye Germany   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 70'   The Hinterlands
Physical   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   Main Cliff
Eternal Optimist   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Upper Wall
Hellbender   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Main Cliff
Frisky Widow   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Main Cliff
Juliet   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Capulet Side Canyon
Title 9   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Upper Wall
Tuning Fork   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 62'   The Hinterlands
Buck Up   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 165'   Upper Wall
Beasts of the Northern Wild   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   Upper Wall
The Holy Grail   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Capulet Side Canyon
Capulin Classic   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   Main Cliff
Anklebiter   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Capulet Side Canyon
Burning Man   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Upper Wall
Widowmaker   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   Main Cliff
Futuristic   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Capulet Side Canyon
Browse More Classics in Capulin Canyon

Featured Route For Capulin Canyon
Super splitter Anklebiter. May 2013.

Anklebiter 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : ... : Capulet Side Canyon
On obvious overhanging off width that just begs for your blood. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Capulin Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
How to get to Capulin Canyon from the Saint Peter's Dome road. Any of the approaches work to get down, but #1 requires a 50ft hand line/rap.
BETA PHOTO: How to get to Capulin Canyon from the Saint Peter'...
Comments on Capulin Canyon Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 15, 2013
By Josh Smith
Apr 21, 2014
CONDITION REPORT 

April 20th 2014--the approach to the main cliff was damaged in the heavy September rains last year but it's still easier than the approach to the upper cliff. It is trivial to follow it down to the creek from the end of the ridge (see the overview topo) and I've re-established the cairns going from the creek up to the cliff. Look for footsteps and try to follow the same path each time. Thanks.

By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 27, 2013

As expected, some people seem to really love this place while others really don't.
Bring 3-4 sets of cams including some wide gear, a helmet, extra water and sunblock. Tape is advised. 2 ropes is best for the Main Wall, 1 is usually enough for the shorter walls. The hike back to the car is burly.

Estimates of hiking times: 30 minutes approach, 45 minutes return. Maybe a little longer the first time. (Steep & loose. Wear real shoes. If you're put off by Sandia approaches, you won't like this either.)

We would love to hear from people who climbed here pre-2010. Only 5 lines had fixed gear or webbing, others (especially the cleaner lines that top out), we're not so sure about.

By Eric Whitbeck
Nov 4, 2013

Went and checked it out. Unlike most NM areas, this one is better than I expected. It looks a bit like the Creek, but climbs like Paradise Forks. This is certainly my favorite traditional crag in the state. It will eventually draw some crowds and the trail system is going to be an issue. If anywhere deserves some serious trail work it is this place. The routes developers have done a great job, but the trail work needed is impressive. If you dig jamming, this is the place in NM.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 12, 2013

It truly is an impressive area and I feel it's the best concentration of crack climbing in the state. Regarding the trails, that's a tough topic with no easy answers. It's a wilderness area and therefore more sensitive. The local climbers don't want to do anything to jeopardize access to the area and building new trails without the support of the forest service would do more harm than good. So for now it's just "climber's trails" following obvious ridges or gullies for minimal impact to access the bottom of the canyon.

A few folks are trying to open good communication with the FS regarding the importance of the area to the climber user group. It would be wonderful to get the opportunity to partner with the FS to establish some real trails into the canyon.

By Eric Whitbeck
Nov 12, 2013

I agree. The thing is that not building really good trails leads to more rather than less impact. Think of the trail up to Castleton Tower. Without real trails, the crowds will cause far more erosion and impact than they would with trails. I am not suggesting trail work without FS acknowledgement, but climbers are going to go to Capulin Canyon and they can either walk down a well established trail or thrash their way down a hillside. Add in the effect of the fire and the intensity of NM rain fall and you may see the trail as it is now simply disappear. Anyone, I am not blaming anyone just making a suggestion. I think what you guys have done out there is awesome and I look forward to going back.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 12, 2013

Thanks Eric. I hear you for sure. It's a bit of a rock and a hard place at the moment but hopefully something better materializes in the future.

By David Sahalie
From: on the road again
Nov 14, 2013

Don't consult with the Forest Disservice. They are in bed with Jemez Pueblo, a pot shard will be found, and the whole area will be shut down. Enjoy the few years you have there until it becomes Sacred.

By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 14, 2013

That's correct, "David". We were reluctant to share the area publicly in light of the Crystal Cave situation on the other side of the Jemez, and the bolt/power-drill issues in the Sandias. (Ultimately, we hope that sharing the info will help long-term access.) Hopefully, we (climbers) can avoid fucking up here.

And, we've seen no sign of archaeology at, or near, the cliffs.

By Eric Whitbeck
Nov 14, 2013

The Forest Service is certainly going to notice the increase in use in the area. It seems ridiculous to think otherwise. There were probably more than a dozen or so climbers just at Upper Wall last weekend. The bottom line is this is a superb crag for traditional climbing in NM. In terms of not sharing the area, you may not have shared it with the FS, but the in depth posting of routes, gear descriptions, and photos are certainly sharing. I am not complaining, I am as psyched on the place as anyone, but you cannot post routes on the Proj then think people are not going to go. If people are going to go, the FS is going to notice. As much as I would hate to lose the place, I can only imagine how frustrating it would be for Josh and the rest of the developers if their years of labor led to a few ascents and a closure.

By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 14, 2013

Prior to posting this area, it was discussed with Access Fund, Jemez District of the FS, and some people from NM Crag. All said that climbing here was an acceptable use of our national forest wilderness areas. Still, one can't help but be a little concerned that something could go wrong.

I'm glad the info on the area is publicly available; it's cool to see people from ABQ climbing here now. I'm hopeful that more visitation will in fact be viewed as a good thing by the FS. I'm also hopeful that sharing this area will encourage others to share the new crags they've been climbing at in NM, especially those that are high quality or offer a unique experience in the area.

As an aside, a few of us who climbed here in 2010-11 have already had to come to grips with the possibility of losing the area. It wasn't clear that, following the Las Conchas fire, that there would still be reasonable road access.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 14, 2013

The decision to post the area on MP was not taken lightly and a lot of thought and consideration went into the decision. No one thought for a moment that adding it to this site would be sharing with climbers but not with land managers. Increased traffic to the area was fully expected considering how unique and enjoyable the climbing is in the area.

Basically the entire main Capulin Canyon page text here came from a document drafted by Josh and edited by a few others that was then sent to the Jemez Ranger District personnel. One of the primary drivers for sharing information about Capulin here on MP was to emphasize the importance of the area, the history of climbing in the canyon, the fact that the area is in a wilderness area and the ethics of climbing and placing fixed anchors in wilderness. A major catalyst for sharing this information was the purported instance of a group of climbers arriving at Capulin looking to "establish sport routes [using a power drill]". An action like that could do serious harm to the reputation of climbers in the wilderness area. So it is hoped that sharing this information, and emphasizing the rules of wilderness activities, will ensure us climbers don't jeopardize access to the area.

By Eric Whitbeck
Nov 14, 2013

It seems like you guys did everything right. Hopefully the idea of powerdrilling routes is more urban legend than real although it is NM and you never know. You would have to be a pretty serious idiot to do that. Like I said originally, my only concern is the havoc that increasing crowds will wreak on the current trail system. Once people start camping there and you get large groups thrashing up and down those ridges you are going to have all sorts of erosion, rock fall, etc. Anyway, I won't belabor my point. I am just happy the place is out there. So many cracks to try to onsight! Thanks again to the developers, lets keep the place open. I am deleting all my following posts related to pointless internet drivel with trolls.

By David Sahalie
From: on the road again
Nov 15, 2013

This crag has 'certainly' been approved of by one Eric Whitbeck. Congratulations NM, for reaching this high standard.

By Owen Summerscales
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 15, 2013

ooh expert thread troll

By Eric Whitbeck
Nov 15, 2013

Jeremy,
Check Capulin out. You will dig it.