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Capt'n Rehab 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
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Page Views: 781
Submitted By: Price on Jan 19, 2010
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A failed attempt! We used a stick clip and an alpi...

Description 

Want to break into the 5.13 range? Then this is the route for you! A 5.11 climb with a 5.12ish dyno, this climb is given a 5.13a rating in the Goss guide. The dyno is big-all points off-for most people, but still probably doesn't qualify for the 13 range.

Most people will pull up to the 3rd bolt and clip it, as a fall on the dyno to the 2nd bolt could get ugly


Location 

4th route to the left of the overhanging prow in the middle of the wall. Look for the big dyno to a block up and left at the 3rd bolt.


Protection 

7 bolts and chains. Consider clipping above the dyno before attempting the OS.



Photos of Capt'n Rehab Slideshow Add Photo
Capt'n Rehap - 13a - Dyno.  If that move was at the top, no one would question the grade.
Capt'n Rehap - 13a - Dyno. If that move was at th...
Sticking the Dyno crux.
Sticking the Dyno crux.
Best outdoor dyno ive ever been on. two well placed crimps for hands and two pockets for feet.
BETA PHOTO: Best outdoor dyno ive ever been on. two well place...
Stick clipping the bolt above the dyno is recommended
Stick clipping the bolt above the dyno is recommen...
Comments on Capt'n Rehab Add Comment
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By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 14, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b PG13

The dyno on this route is awesome! I agree with a PG13 rating...if you miss the dyno, you could be coming head first into the rock. Super fun! Just stick clip the bolt above they dyno. The climbing after the dyno is fun, but maybe 11a at the most. The rock's a bit fragile as you near the chains.

By Hyrum j. C
From: St george, ut
Dec 26, 2013
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

I've done this climb several time and usually have to attempt the dyno 4 or 5 times to stick it. i have never used a stick clip for it and really see no need for one. it's a little scary but I feel that it is totally safe.

By Leif E
Jan 5, 2014

If you clip the first bolt on the route to the right it keeps the rope out of your way and makes for a more comfortable throw, I also recommend an alpine draw (stick clipped in the next bolt) in case you don't stick the throw to save your rope from the rough sand stone