Capt'n Rehab 5.12 PG13
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b/c [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Price on Jan 19, 2010 |
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Sticking the Dyno crux.
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Description Want to break into the 5.13 range? Then this is the route for you! A 5.11 climb with a 5.12ish dyno, this climb is given a 5.13a rating in the Goss guide. The dyno is big-all points off-for most people, but still probably doesn't qualify for the 13 range.
Most people will pull up to the 3rd bolt and clip it, as a fall on the dyno to the 2nd bolt could get ugly
Location 4th route to the right of the overhanging prow in the middle of the wall. Look for the big dyno to a block up and left at the 3rd bolt.
Protection 7 bolts and chains. Consider clipping above the dyno before attempting the OS.
BETA PHOTO: Best outdoor dyno ive ever been on. two well place...
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Stick clipping the bolt above the dyno is recommen...
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By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 14, 2011
rating: 5.12c PG13
| The dyno on this route is awesome! I agree with a PG13 rating...if you miss the dyno, you could be coming head first into the rock. Super fun! Just stick clip the bolt above they dyno. The climbing after the dyno is fun, but maybe 11a at the most. The rock's a bit fragile as you near the chains. |
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