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Upper Tier - Right End
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Chockstone (aka:Captain's Crack) T 
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Mal Bouche T 

Chockstone (aka:Captain's Crack) 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 3,618
Submitted By: roddack on Apr 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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BETA PHOTO: Base of Chockstone (Captains Crack)

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  • Description 

    Great route with a variety of moves.


    follow trail to big gully, ascend the gully and go right until end of ledge. Alternate climb Erica's Ass Crack (5.6), or the Bookend (5.5) and go right at ledge.


    Normal VT trad rack

    Comments on Chockstone (aka:Captain's Crack) Add Comment
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    By Dan Smith
    Sep 7, 2008

    Not really Pg-13. more Pg or even G if you look for good placements. Have at least 1 #3 and 2 #2 and #1 Cams. Many bomber nut placements.
    By Nick Weinberg
    From: Essex, NY
    May 17, 2010

    This is one of the best protected climbs ever. You can sew it up if you want. Excellent and hard for the grade. Definitely not PG-13.
    By Derek Doucet
    Oct 1, 2010
    rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

    The original name was Ledangier, though it is usually referred to as Chockstone these days, and ocassionally as Captain's Crack. The route is certainly not PG13, as there is abundant good gear if the leader keeps her/his eyes open and is reasonably proficient at placing pro. Generally considered 5.8, though 5.7+ seems fair enough. FA: John Bouchard, 1974.
    By Keyan P
    From: Brooklyn, NY
    Jan 14, 2011
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Can this be toproped?
    By Chris Duca
    From: Havertown, PA
    Jan 23, 2011
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    TRing Captain's Crack would be (in my opinion) a pretty hard endeavor. First, you'd have to 'shwack your way to the top of the cliff, scramble down to the bolted anchor, then rap down (all the while trying to keep yourself out of the tree) to the belay ledge, which is narrow and ends abruptly at the base of the route.
    By Derek Doucet
    Feb 1, 2011
    rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

    TRing this route would be inconvenient. The approach to the top from below the Rose Crack, then up to the right and then back left and down a steep and exposed step to gain the anchors would be involved, and might very possibly involve a rappel. Add to this the fact that a single 60m rope would just barely reach the ledge, and then only at the far right end, which is narrow and somewhat sloping (an anchor for the belayer can be built with small wires and would be a prudent step), and it seems like way more trouble than it's worth. If you want to TR in this grade range at Upper West, the two 5.7 corners on the lower tier beneath Chockstone, and often used as a first pitch linked in to it, are much better options.
    By mikeinvt
    Jun 24, 2012

    Climbed this yesterday, one of the anchor bolts is completely gone. I left a cordalette and locker on the dying tree right above the bolt but I don't suspect it will be there for long.
    By John Husky
    Sep 16, 2012

    New bolt anchor at the top has been installed.

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