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 ADVANCED
Upper West Bolton
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Against The Grain 
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Bookend, The 
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Captain's Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,468
Submitted By: roddack on Apr 22, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Base of Chockstone (Captains Crack)
Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Great route with a variety of moves.


Location 

follow trail to big gully, ascend the gully and go right until end of ledge. Alternate climb Erica's Ass Crack (5.6), or the Bookend (5.5) and go right at ledge.


Protection 

Normal VT trad rack



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By Dan Smith
Sep 7, 2008

Not really Pg-13. more Pg or even G if you look for good placements. Have at least 1 #3 and 2 #2 and #1 Cams. Many bomber nut placements.

By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
May 17, 2010

This is one of the best protected climbs ever. You can sew it up if you want. Excellent and hard for the grade. Definitely not PG-13.

By Derek Doucet
Oct 1, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

The original name was Ledangier, though it is usually referred to as Chockstone these days, and ocassionally as Captain's Crack. The route is certainly not PG13, as there is abundant good gear if the leader keeps her/his eyes open and is reasonably proficient at placing pro. Generally considered 5.8, though 5.7+ seems fair enough. FA: John Bouchard, 1974.

By Keyan P
From: Burlington, VT
Jan 14, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Can this be toproped?

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Jan 23, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

TRing Captain's Crack would be (in my opinion) a pretty hard endeavor. First, you'd have to 'shwack your way to the top of the cliff, scramble down to the bolted anchor, then rap down (all the while trying to keep yourself out of the tree) to the belay ledge, which is narrow and ends abruptly at the base of the route.

By Derek Doucet
Feb 1, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

TRing this route would be inconvenient. The approach to the top from below the Rose Crack, then up to the right and then back left and down a steep and exposed step to gain the anchors would be involved, and might very possibly involve a rappel. Add to this the fact that a single 60m rope would just barely reach the ledge, and then only at the far right end, which is narrow and somewhat sloping (an anchor for the belayer can be built with small wires and would be a prudent step), and it seems like way more trouble than it's worth. If you want to TR in this grade range at Upper West, the two 5.7 corners on the lower tier beneath Chockstone, and often used as a first pitch linked in to it, are much better options.

By mikeinvt
Jun 24, 2012

Climbed this yesterday, one of the anchor bolts is completely gone. I left a cordalette and locker on the dying tree right above the bolt but I don't suspect it will be there for long.

By John Husky
Sep 16, 2012

New bolt anchor at the top has been installed.