Login with Facebook
Eavesdown Docks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alliance, The S 
Black Market Beagles S 
Browncoat S 
Bushwhacked S 
Canceled S 
Captain Hammer S 
Captain Mal S 
Captain Tight Pants S 
Companion, The S 
Damage My Calm S 
Firefly S 
Jubal S 
Oh Captain! My Captain! S 
Out of Gas S 
Out to the Black S 
Shindig S 
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal S 
Too Pretty to Die  S 

Captain Tight Pants 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Darren Knezek & Perin Blanchard
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 421
Submitted By: Darren Knezek on Sep 7, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Captain Tight Pants Photo by Darren Knezek.

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


A pocket-pulling start with lousy feet that is best gotten through quickly leads to a couple of underclings from which you set out through a thin, reachy, and slightly cerebral section using a fair amount of exertion to much-anticipated larger holds, and a breathy, balancy bit of 5.10 to easier ground. Follow the large pockets, edges and flake of Out of Gas to the top.

Although a bit of a two-move wonder, sending Captain Tight Pants is never-the-less a satisfying endeavor.


Located a few feet left of the large, right-facing corner that marks the end of the overhanging rock above the wider, flat spot in the trail. The line leads over a roof with quite blank-looking rock above the roof.


10 bolts, ring anchors (shared with Out of Gas to the right).

Photos of Captain Tight Pants Slideshow Add Photo
<a href='/v/captain-tight-pants/108326348'>Captain Tight Pants</a> is sure to be a popular route.
Captain Tight Pants is sure to be a popular route....
John Ross showing why pants get tight.
John Ross showing why pants get tight.

Comments on Captain Tight Pants Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Sep 9, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Crux spoiler alert!
By Brennan Crellin
From: Draper, UT
Aug 22, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Although some will disagree (because of the overall route), this is easily a 5.11c.

It's one of those routes that highlights the issue with the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). The two crux moves on this route are very low. Each crux move is as hard/harder than any single move on a benchmark 5.11c, like License To Thrill. But 3/4 of the climb is 5.9 so overall it feels easier than 5.11c. But, the crux is definitely 5.11c, so on the YDS it's 5.11c