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Eavesdown Docks
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Alliance, The S 
Black Market Beagles S 
Browncoat S 
Bushwhacked S 
Canceled S 
Captain Hammer S 
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Captain Tight Pants S 
Companion, The S 
Damage My Calm S 
Firefly S 
Jubal S 
Oh Captain! My Captain! S 
Out of Gas S 
Out to the Black S 
Shindig S 
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal S 
Too Pretty to Die  S 

Captain Tight Pants 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Darren Knezek & Perin Blanchard
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 444
Submitted By: Darren Knezek on Sep 7, 2013

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Captain Tight Pants Photo by Darren Knezek.

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A pocket-pulling start with lousy feet that is best gotten through quickly leads to a couple of underclings from which you set out through a thin, reachy, and slightly cerebral section using a fair amount of exertion to much-anticipated larger holds, and a breathy, balancy bit of 5.10 to easier ground. Follow the large pockets, edges and flake of Out of Gas to the top.

Although a bit of a two-move wonder, sending Captain Tight Pants is never-the-less a satisfying endeavor.

Location 

Located a few feet left of the large, right-facing corner that marks the end of the overhanging rock above the wider, flat spot in the trail. The line leads over a roof with quite blank-looking rock above the roof.

Protection 

10 bolts, ring anchors (shared with Out of Gas to the right).


Photos of Captain Tight Pants Slideshow Add Photo
Captain Tight Pants is sure to be a popular route....
Captain Tight Pants is sure to be a popular route....
John Ross showing why pants get tight.
John Ross showing why pants get tight.

Comments on Captain Tight Pants Add Comment
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By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Sep 9, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Crux spoiler alert!
By Brennan Crellin
Administrator
From: Draper, UT
Aug 22, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Although some will disagree (because of the overall route), this is easily a 5.11c.

It's one of those routes that highlights the issue with the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). The two crux moves on this route are very low. Each crux move is as hard/harder than any single move on a benchmark 5.11c, like License To Thrill. But 3/4 of the climb is 5.9 so overall it feels easier than 5.11c. But, the crux is definitely 5.11c, so on the YDS it's 5.11c