A pocket-pulling start with lousy feet that is best gotten through quickly leads to a couple of underclings from which you set out through a thin, reachy, and slightly cerebral section using a fair amount of exertion to much-anticipated larger holds, and a breathy, balancy bit of 5.10 to easier ground. Follow the large pockets, edges and flake of Out of Gas to the top.
Although a bit of a two-move wonder, sending Captain Tight Pants is never-the-less a satisfying endeavor.
Located a few feet left of the large, right-facing corner that marks the end of the overhanging rock above the wider, flat spot in the trail. The line leads over a roof with quite blank-looking rock above the roof.
10 bolts, ring anchors (shared with Out of Gas to the right).
By John Ross From: Wasatch Front, UT Sep 9, 2013 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a
Crux spoiler alert!
By Brennan Crellin Administrator From: Draper, UT 2 days ago rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a
Although some will disagree (because of the overall route), this is easily a 5.11c.
It's one of those routes that highlights the issue with the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). The two crux moves on this route are very low. Each crux move is as hard/harder than any single move on a benchmark 5.11c, like License To Thrill. But 3/4 of the climb is 5.9 so overall it feels easier than 5.11c. But, the crux is definitely 5.11c, so on the YDS it's 5.11c