The first pitch is one of the best moderates in the area and for 5.10 climbers the second pitch should not be missed. This was one of my first climbs while learning trad and is a great introduction to the Voo. The easiest approach is to walk the entire length of the east side of Nautilus, past Friday the 13th. Walk around the north end and then head back in the direction of the parking lot. Just past MaxiLash is a large roof with a dihedral leading to it.
P1 (5.8, 70') - Climb the shelves below a left-facing dihedral, which goes to a right-facing dihedral as you turn the corner. The first pitch is a popular hand crack which starts off small and gets bigger as you go. End underneath the roof at the chain anchor.
P2 (10d, 80') - The start of this traverse lures you in, but the reason this is 10d lies just around the corner. The wall drops away, and the crack turns to flaring jams and slopers. Trying to place gear on this section is awkward to say the least (might wanna take off that helmet!). Pull over the bulge at the lip and belay at the anchors.
Vedauwoo Mega Classic, especially pitch one. I actually recommend keeping the helmet ON for p.2, as (depending on one's height) using opposing forces 'tween the feet and the roof (thru yer head!) can be a real help in moving the hands and placing pro...
I did the 1st pitch of this route with Craig Luebben, inventor of the Big Bro and Vedauwoo climbing hardman. Spent three days in a Vedauwoo clinic with Craig. This is a great pitch to work hand and fist jams on. I recommend taping, the insides of these cracks are pretty rough.
At this point the second pitch is a beyond me, but definitely worth coming back for.
By mtoensing From: Boulder Nov 5, 2010 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
By Arlo F Niederer From: Fort Collins, CO Sep 11, 2012 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
The nut on the right bolt was loose when I climbed this on Labor Day, 2012. I finger tightened it, but a wrench would do a better job.
The hangers are older style, smaller SMC hangers. Hard to clip more than one carabiner.
By Evan Martin From: Laramie, WY Jun 21, 2014 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
Pitch two is definitely worth it. Linking it with pitch 1 is fine if you sling your peices and don't place an excessive amount of gear on pitch 1. This also makes a potential fall softer than it would be otherwise. Used a few C3s and x4s on the 2nd pitch, which was perfect!
If you fancy yourself as a roof crack technician, you'll love pitch 2. This was one of the only 10+ pitches we climbed that felt soft. Straightforward, solid gear (#1 C3 to #1 C4). Great climb, pitch one of Beefeater would be a great warm-up for P2 of Nemo.