Captain Jack 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 180 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | J. Steiger, J. Saviers-Steiger, Aug. 23 2008, |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | John Steiger on Sep 1, 2008 |
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Description Captain Jack climbs the two-tiered arete right of Six Pence in two pitches. The first pitch climbs either on or slightly left of the lower arete, protected by gear and two bolts, until it slopes back and a belay can be established on a fairly decent ledge from nuts and cams (as noted by one of the comments, a set of chains has been recently added just below the ledge). The first pitch starts about 15 feet right of the base of Six Pence, either by climbing the smooth face left of the arete or the arete proper. The second pitch traverses left to gain the upper arete, then climbs the rib past a bolt to the top, avoiding the ugly chimney/gully to the left.
A better second pitch -- which elevates this climb to two stars -- ascends the face right of the upper arete past 5 bolts (this has been recently posted as Steve the Pirate). It is possible to do this alternative and the first pitch of Captain Jack in one rope-length (a 60m rope may be necessary). This 5-bolt line was established by an unknown party before the FA of Captain Jack.
Location To the right of Six Pence is a large, dark chimney/gully. Captain Jack climbs the somewhat low-angle arete to the right of the chimney/gully. The easiest way to find Six Pence and Captain Jack is to go to the upper left end of the amphitheater and walk left along the base of the crag up a scree slope to its top, above which the bolts on Six Pence are obvious.
Protection Standard trad rack. The majority of the protection is in horizontal cracks (some ingenuity may be necessary. The 2 bolts on the lower arete and the bolt on the upper arete were added after the FA. Walk off the top to the right.
By chris21
Aug 30, 2010
rating: 5.6
| there was a two bolt anchor about 100 or so feet up, about 10-15 above a nice ledge that would be a very comfortable (gear)belay, if you are planning on doing it in two pitches. |
By Robert G.
Oct 18, 2010
| Did this yesterday and led it on the arete which seems to go at an easy 5.6 at best. Above the first arete its really smooth sailing up to the chains. I had a decent sized group with me so we only did the first pitch so I can't comment on the upper other than it does look more challenging. Out of curiosity I went up the smooth looking section about 5 ft left of the arete when I went up to clean the route. If you're looking for 5.7 on the 1st pitch this is where you find it, much more fun than going up the lower arete! |
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