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Storm Mountain Island
Routes Sorted
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Amphitheater Overhang Left S 
Amphitheater Overhang Right 
Aqualung S 
Big in Japan S 
Bolt Route T 
Captain Jack T 
Closing the Gap Variation T 
Coco Moco T 
Edge of Time T 
Encore T 
Epic Wall T 
Flake, The T 
Generation Gap T,TR 
Goodro's Wall T 
La Creme De Shorts T,TR 
Layback Crack T 
Nice Little Crack T,TR 
Padded Cell S 
Six Appeal S 
Six Pence S 
Steve The Pirate T,S 
Storm Mountain Stupor T 
Thin Slice of Time T 
Unknown T 
Unknown 1 S 
Unknown 2 S 

Captain Jack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: J. Steiger, J. Saviers-Steiger, August 2008
Page Views: 1,976
Submitted By: John Steiger on Sep 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Description 

Captain Jack climbs the two-tiered arete right of Six Pence in two pitches. The first pitch climbs either on or slightly left of the lower arete, protected by gear and two bolts, until it slopes back and a belay can be established on a fairly decent ledge from nuts and cams (as noted by one of the comments, a set of chains has been recently added just below the ledge). The first pitch starts about 15 feet right of the base of Six Pence, either by climbing the smooth face left of the arete or the arete proper. The second pitch traverses left to gain the upper arete, then climbs the rib past a bolt to the top, avoiding the ugly chimney/gully to the left.

A better second pitch -- which elevates this climb to two stars -- ascends the face right of the upper arete past 5 bolts (this has been recently posted as Steve the Pirate). It is possible to do this alternative and the first pitch of Captain Jack in one rope-length (a 60m rope may be necessary). This 5-bolt line was established by an unknown party before the FA of Captain Jack.

Location 

To the right of Six Pence is a large, dark chimney/gully. Captain Jack climbs the somewhat low-angle arete to the right of the chimney/gully. The easiest way to find Six Pence and Captain Jack is to go to the upper left end of the amphitheater and walk left along the base of the crag up a scree slope to its top, above which the bolts on Six Pence are obvious.

Protection 

Standard trad rack. The majority of the protection is in horizontal cracks (some ingenuity may be necessary). The 2 bolts on the lower arete and the bolt on the upper arete were added after the FA. Walk off the top to the right.


Comments on Captain Jack Add Comment
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By chris21
Aug 30, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

there was a two bolt anchor about 100 or so feet up, about 10-15 above a nice ledge that would be a very comfortable (gear)belay, if you are planning on doing it in two pitches.
By Robert G.
Oct 18, 2010

Did this yesterday and led it on the arete which seems to go at an easy 5.6 at best. Above the first arete its really smooth sailing up to the chains. I had a decent sized group with me so we only did the first pitch so I can't comment on the upper other than it does look more challenging. Out of curiosity I went up the smooth looking section about 5 ft left of the arete when I went up to clean the route. If you're looking for 5.7 on the 1st pitch this is where you find it, much more fun than going up the lower arete!
By Tyler W
From: Utah
Jul 21, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

Two huge run outs after the bolts of about 20-25 ft. each. There should be another bolt on this climb to make up for the lack of pro or change the safety rating.
By Dale Evans
Jul 22, 2013

Read the description and take your trad rack. Looks like its not a sport climb?!
By Tyler W
From: Utah
Jul 24, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

I did have a rack, myself and my second couldn't find any gear placements for very long runout stretches. I expected there to be adequate pro since the description didn't mention otherwise.
By Dale Evans
Jul 24, 2013

The description did mention this: "The majority of the protection is in horizontal cracks (some ingenuity may be necessary)"
By user id
Jul 24, 2013

Tyler N wrote:
Two huge run outs after the bolts of about 20-25 ft. each. There should be another bolt on this climb to make up for the lack of pro or change the safety rating. I did have a rack, myself and my second couldn't find any gear placements for very long runout stretches. I expected there to be adequate pro since the description didn't mention otherwise.


This is a nice example of what D. Raleigh is saying in his latest article: Climbing's Big Mistake

"If climbing isnít there already, it is fast approaching a perfect storm where there are more climbers than ever who know less than ever about climbing safety. Learning to climb meant starting at the beginning with knots and ropework, placing gear and building anchors. You became self-reliant, learned about gear, and the complexities and technical jiggery helped keep you from getting in over your head."

Read a book, take a class, the problem here isn't the description or the route.
By Tyler W
From: Utah
Aug 3, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

Your comment does nothing to address the fact that my partner and I thought the route had fewer opportunities for protection than the description leads climbers to believe. You guys can continue to think whatever you want. TNB's article has nothing to do with this situation. I came entirely prepared for a mixed climb and ready to use some "ingenuity" with pro placements. There just aren't weaknesses in the rock for a long ways, and that should either be bolted or rated as R.

To anyone planning to climb this route, make sure you are absolutely solid at the grade and comfortable leading large runouts w/ groundfall potential between easy (.5/.6) climbing.
By rging
From: Salt Lake City, Ut
Aug 21, 2013

Some people just don't get it. Climb it again and take the time to look around and study the rock. I recall placing two opposing pieces once or twice and a few other creative solutions. There was no ground fall potential (assuming my gear would hold).

BTW, coming prepared doesn't just mean bringing the right equipment.
By user id
Aug 21, 2013

Actually Tyler, I hit it pretty close to the head.

Similar to how you missed my point, you also missed plenty of opportunities for gear. I climbed this last year and did not find it run-out at all. The gear was more creative than your pull and plug pieces, but it was there.

You and your partner thought there fewer opportunities for gear, but only because you both failed to see them.

I'm not going to spell the article out for you, but when you read between the lines, more and more people are going out without knowing the basics. In your case when/how to place gear that is not just a cam and not in a dead-vertical crack.

You didn't get the article, so I don't expect you to get any of this, but the problem here is that you got in over your head, you got scared, then you bitched about it on the internet. You blamed the description and route for its inadequacies, when you should be looking at your own.