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World Domination
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Berserk Osama S 
Bobby's Got a Dirty Mouth S 
Came as a Rat S 
Captain Insano S 
Mike's Got a Dirty Diaper S,TR 
Moltar! S 
Napoleon's Highchair S 
Pocket Seeking Drone S 
Sofa King S 
Thor S 
Weight Of The World S 
World Leader Pretend S 

Captain Insano 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dan Miller, Mike Snyder
Season: Summer and Fall
Page Views: 1,181
Submitted By: Mike Snyder on May 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Captain Insano

Description 

Easy moves up the dihedral to the fifth clip to a cruxy move very similar to the Dirty Mouth crux. Follow the left slanting crack for nine clips of amazing jug hauling on steep terrain. Heads up! for the last bolt - its crimpy, and after 95 feet you'll be pumped. An enduro burn for sure with nothing harder than 5.11.

Location 

Right of World Leader Pretend, begin in the crack/dihedral and follow the crack system up and left.

Protection 

14 clips, sport anchor


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By EldoFiend
From: WY
Apr 12, 2010

The end is a bit contrived in my opinion. Its 100 feet of jugs to one crimp from which you clip the chains. A good route, but there are not 8 clips of overhanging jugs as Huey writes.
By hEatchel
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 16, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Broken hold up top ?
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Outstanding, fantastic! One of my favorites in the Canyon. Definitely not 12a though (maybe in the Red).
By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The holds on this are definitely not all jugs. Probably not even half of them are jugs! Great climb though.
By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Jun 25, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I was robbed, robbed!!! Spit off on my flash attempt by the sharp little crimps up top. Looks like the anchor may have been a bolt lower previously? thought I saw a bolt hole filled next to the last bolt. Full value, one of the best pitches of the trip thus far.
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