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Buttress of Cracks - Left Side
Routes Sorted
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Arcy Farcy T 
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 
Bluebeard T 
Bocomaru T 
Buccaneer, The T 
Captain Hook T 
Double Exposure T 
Double Exposure Direct T 
Frustration T 
Ham Sandwich T 
Hernia - Direct Finish T 
Hernia, The T 
Insomnia T 
Pass Time T 
Pirate, The T 
Swashbuckler T 
Sword of Damocles T 
Walk the Plank T 
Winter Solstice T 

Captain Hook 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Charlie Raymond and Larry Reynolds, October 1966
Page Views: 3,268
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jan 25, 2006

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Me pulling the roof on the 1st Pitch. My first Sui...

Description 

This prominent chimney is near the left end of the Buttress of Cracks. The first pitch (5.7) is a steep, well-protected chimney with a crux overhang at the top. The second pitch (5.6) is a slick, unpleasant chimney. It finishes at the top of the buttress, allowing you to scramble off.

Protection 

standard rack, with a few medium to large pieces


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By Brandontyrrell
May 9, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

fun route
By SCherry
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 3, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Old school 5.8 rating for sure. The entry moves are the crux and the gear is super tricky here. I found BD C3's to work best and its nice to have 2 red C3's and a purple here. Anyone who rates this 5.7 is sandbagging. It was one of the harder 5.8 pitches I've ever led and I've climbed at old school trad areas all over the country. For comparison "The Hernia" which is also rated 5.8 is much easier, and less sustained.

Any truth to the rumor that a hold at the "nose" of the alligator broke off making that move up there harder? On the onsight that move felt every bit 5.9 and a good distance between your pieces with a nasty fall back into the funnel of the chimney a potential.
By Tradoholic
Mar 25, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Pretty well protected, this took some thinking to get through. Definitely harder than Hernia. I didn't find the finishing chimney slick at all, just a little strenuous laybacking. Rap off Insomnia with a 70m to get back down quick.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 4, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

We just did the first pitch and then traverse over to the rap anchors.

The start seemed all of 5.9 to me, with fiddly gear to boot. I had to streeeetch to get a spot for a small offset nut from the opening feet. And the spot required some cleaning with the nut tool just for bonus thrill.

The climb protected well past that up until the roof, though stock up on small to midsize nuts as they seemed to be the ticket.

I found the exit move pretty damn thrilling with the gear way down below your feet. Wouldn't want to fall.
By Ryan-G
From: San Diego
Oct 14, 2013

Really unique and exhilarating route. Crux is definitely down low, but pulling the horn is by far the psychological crux with your gear down low. I left some of the small gear with my partner...bad call cause you'll want it up high too. Probably will be a rude - exciting, if you have the gear - awakening, if you're breaking into the grade. I was feeling pretty good after doing El Camino the day before than was summarily humbled once I got on this.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 3, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Brilliant in retrospect, though a bit of a fight while you're actually doing it. The start of pitch 1 would get HVS 5b in UK - tricky but with good small wires, then maybe HVS 4c for the top section of the pitch which is unlikely and intimidating, though relatively easy once you commit to it.