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Me pulling the roof on the 1st Pitch. My first Sui...
This prominent chimney is near the left end of the Buttress of Cracks. The first pitch (5.7) is a steep, well-protected chimney with a crux overhang at the top. The second pitch (5.6) is a slick, unpleasant chimney. It finishes at the top of the buttress, allowing you to scramble off.
standard rack, with a few medium to large pieces
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 3, 2011
rating: 5.8+ PG13
Old school 5.8 rating for sure. The entry moves are the crux and the gear is super tricky here. I found BD C3's to work best and its nice to have 2 red C3's and a purple here. Anyone who rates this 5.7 is sandbagging. It was one of the harder 5.8 pitches I've ever led and I've climbed at old school trad areas all over the country. For comparison "The Hernia" which is also rated 5.8 is much easier, and less sustained.
Any truth to the rumor that a hold at the "nose" of the alligator broke off making that move up there harder? On the onsight that move felt every bit 5.9 and a good distance between your pieces with a nasty fall back into the funnel of the chimney a potential.
|By Trad Nanny|
Mar 25, 2013
Pretty well protected, this took some thinking to get through. Definitely harder than Hernia. I didn't find the finishing chimney slick at all, just a little strenuous laybacking. Rap off Insomnia with a 70m to get back down quick.