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Turkey Tail
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brush Turkey 
Captain Hook 
Chop, The 
Double Trouble 
Drumstick Direct 
East Side Story 
Easy Offwidth 
For Turkeys Only 
Gobble This 
Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack 
I Turkey/ Resurrection 
In Search of Unicorns 
Inner Reaches 
Jello Party 
Johnny Lat 
Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) 
Left Side of the Key 
Live Fire 
Make the Cut 
Piece of Cake 
Quivering Quill 
Rasmussen Crack 
Spider Lady 
Squeeze Chimney 
Turkey in the Straw 
Turkey Turd 
Turkey's Delight 
Whimsical Dreams 
Wild Turkey 
Wudamudafuka (1st pitch) 

Captain Hook 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,726
Submitted By: Chris Dawson on Sep 6, 2004
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Joe Leonhard leading.


Captain Hook is located on the west face of the Turkey Tail (if Quivering Quill is on the north, and most of the routes on the south) around the corner from Quivering Quill. It starts on a large ledge and climbs the steep face on edges past four bolts. I thought the crux came passing the first bolt, but the pitch is sustained most of the way. The first bolt has a piece of grey sling on it. This is a fantastic face climb on solid rock (mostly).


Four quickdraws. There is no anchor, so it's necessary to either lower off the last bolt, or clean it and move over to the raps for Quivering Quill. We set an anchor up high in a crack and toproped the climb.

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By Joe Leonhard
From: Denver, CO
Jan 31, 2007

If I remember correctly, the crack up top takes #3, 3.5 and/or 4 Camalots. Use a runner to reduce rop drag over the lip.

By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Jul 31, 2007

Excellent, sustained climbing. Cranking up to the diagonal crack I broke off one of the bigger edges just below the start of the crack.

By Joshh
From: Denver, CO
Sep 15, 2008

Fun sport route. Do you think it would make sense to put an anchor in place of the 4th bolt? It seems like everyone just lowers off that bolt anyways...would make it more safe.

By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 18, 2008

As of 9/08, that last bolt that everyone lowers from is looking really worn. It spins and there is some sign of it pulling away from the rock.

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 1, 2013

Someone chopped the last bolt, which doesn't change the safety or anything. The bolt was placed on top of the rock (where your feet stand hands free) and served as a one-bolt anchor. Currently you have to top out and build an anchor on hand-sized cams and then rap the Quivering Quill anchor.