Another awesome 5.11c not quite as perfect as its neighbor of the same grade, Apocalypse Later, but still not to be missed. "Holy crimpers" this thing will make you work your fingers (hence the name). The hardest moves are at the bottom, and it's just a matter of not pumping out your crimp muscles as pretty much every hold is crimpy. There is however a creative rest toward the top that will put the route in the bag for you, find it and love it.
The left route on the right-most wall in this section.
4 bolts to quick clips.
Undercling and Thumb-dercling
|By Kayte Knower|
Mar 3, 2007
I like this route. Nice Rumney crimping, straightfoward in places and tricky in others. It has some cool technical moves, and reminded me of Smith Rocks.
Apr 8, 2010
Are you supposed to move out left to the arete near the top? I did, and it was nice!
|By Eric Chabot|
From: Thetford Ctr, VT
Aug 12, 2013
no quick clips anymore, bring yer ATC
|By S. Neoh|
Aug 25, 2013
The anchors are just two glue-ins. No links. Deserving of two links for each glue-in, IMO. Mark, the (expansion) bolts all seem fine today. Looks like two of them might be 1/2-inchers.
Still sharp after all these years. I tried the left arete variation between the third and fourth bolt. It definitely takes the stint out of that section of the route compared to straight up. Route is still .11c though. Going to the arete probably means quicker sends, that's all.
Unless it is against your ethics or you are very comfortable with crimpy 5.11 climbing, I recommend stick clipping the 1st bolt.
|By Colin R|
From: Ottawa, ON
Aug 30, 2013
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
If anything I thought this one was harder than Apocalypse Later.