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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Visible from below, this is the right hand of the two cracks that lie to the right of Straight Shooter. Approach as per Straight Shooter and then work right along the base of the cliff until you reach a wide chimney with a chockstone in it. Work your way past the chockstone to reach the route.
Pitch 1: Ascend the wide crack to a large ledge.
Descent: Work left and down along the ledge toward Straight Shooter to a pair of old bolts with chains. A single rope rappel brings you back to the base.
Bring large gear for the route (3" to 5") and some smaller gear for anchor (.5" to 1").
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 20, 2009
This route is incorrectly marked in Jerry's book- this route lies to the RIGHT of the Lazy Fireman- as does Crispy Critters. The chains mentioned above are the rap anchors for the Lazy Fireman.
By Paul Zander
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 17, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
then is there a name for the 5.7 trad route between straight shooter and the lazy fireman?
By Ben Townsend
Nov 13, 2015
As others have noted, Handren has the description correct but the location wrong -- it's the right-hand of the two cracks on the SE face of the big block, around right of the Lazy Fireman. Rack for the route consisted of #3, 4, and 5 Camalot (if you're comfortable bumping up the #4 a few times, otherwise take two of those). Rather than downclimb to the Lazy Fireman chains, we slung the summit block for a rap anchor; solid, but could use another cordelette for redundancy.