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Captain Coconuts 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Paul Crawford, Richard Harrison and Nick Nordblum, 1982
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Submitted By: caughtinside on May 29, 2007
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Description 

This is the face just left of Vanishing Point, and finishes on the Vanishing Point anchor. It is 170', so you need 2 ropes to get down. You might be able to get to the Craven Image anchor, but not sure.

The face is characterized by dikes and a number of knobs. The knobs resemble coconuts, hence the route name. There is a thinish discontinuous crack down low which takes some so-so gear, a long face section, and then a finger crack stemming corner to the anchor.

The FA told a friend of mine (third hand info alert!) that you can sling the coconuts. In my humble opinion, most of those would not hold a fall, as the tops of many of those coconuts are rounded and slopey.

I toproped this climb. It is a very fun toprope, but would be a harrowing lead.


Location 

West wall. This is the face just left of Vanishing Point, about 30' right of Craven Image.


Protection 

This climb would be a very, very serious lead. I listed it as R, but it might even cross the line into X. Nuts, Cams to 1". Slings for marginal knob tie offs. There are no bolts on this climb.

One anchor bolt is a rusty 1/4"er. The webbing was replaced 5/07, there is a rap ring and a quick link.



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By bob branscomb
From: Lander, WY
Feb 6, 2009

I lead this unit in the mid-80s and remember finding a set of RPs and thin stoppers, and the smallest Metolius tricams made it a bit better. Still, remember feeling that once was enough up the thing.