Captain Coconuts  5.10a R

227 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 170 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Paul Crawford, Richard Harrison and Nick Nordblum, 1982 Submitted By:  caughtinside on May 29, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>> Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting April 1, 2012 to September 30, 2012. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311. Here's a map: 2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009 This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is the face just left of Vanishing Point, and finishes on the Vanishing Point anchor. It is 170', so you need 2 ropes to get down. You might be able to get to the Craven Image anchor, but not sure.

The face is characterized by dikes and a number of knobs. The knobs resemble coconuts, hence the route name. There is a thinish discontinuous crack down low which takes some so-so gear, a long face section, and then a finger crack stemming corner to the anchor.

The FA told a friend of mine (third hand info alert!) that you can sling the coconuts. In my humble opinion, most of those would not hold a fall, as the tops of many of those coconuts are rounded and slopey.

I toproped this climb. It is a very fun toprope, but would be a harrowing lead.

Location 

West wall. This is the face just left of Vanishing Point, about 30' right of Craven Image.

Protection 

This climb would be a very, very serious lead. I listed it as R, but it might even cross the line into X. Nuts, Cams to 1". Slings for marginal knob tie offs. There are no bolts on this climb.

One anchor bolt is a rusty 1/4"er. The webbing was replaced 5/07, there is a rap ring and a quick link.