Captain Blonde Sinks The Ship 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | Craig Luebben, 2006 |
| Submitted By: | Monomaniac on Nov 16, 2009 |
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Warming up on Capt Blonde.
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Description One of the best lines at The Boneyard, Capt Blonde climbs a nice line of overhanging jugs & pockets. This route makes for a good warmup, but its harder than it looks, with big pumpy moves. One of the steeper 5.11s around, this route will keep you on your toes. Begin with easy moves up the left side of the arete. Around the 3rd bolt, veer left towards the steep wave (the 5.9 breaks right here). Pumpy moves between rounded ledges lead up & up. Head right, around the subtle arete, when the angle kicks back.
Location The center of The Boneyard features a narrow cirque of steeply overhanging, pocketed rock. Capt Blonde is the right-most line in the cirque, and shares teh first 3 bolts with a 5.9 that exits the cirque to the right when things get steep.
Protection ~10 bolts, 2BA.
Capt Blonde is bulgier than she first appears.
| jakob... doin it
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| Comments on Captain Blonde Sinks The Ship |
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By John Wilder From: Las Vegas, NV Oct 25, 2010 rating: 5.11a
| stick clip the second bolt and skip the first. |
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