Captain America
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.2 from 13 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Greg Vernon, Mike Baca 1987 |
Page Views: | 2,450 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Steve Gade on Aug 3, 2012 · Updates |
Admins: | Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Start by climbing the crack (5.8) in the center of the dome. Belay on a spacious ledge by slinging a chockstone at the back or build an anchor near the front to avoid rope drag.
Pitch 2 (5.7) takes you left around a corner and then angles up and left along an obvious crack. Build a belay behind a very thick flake/block but consider backing it up in the nearby crack.
Pitch 3 (5.10a) opens with the technical crux and then backs off to 5.8 lay-back past two bonsai trees. If you have a 60m rope, belay under the roof (continue with a 70m).
Pull the roof (bolt) on Pitch 4 (5.8)and lay-back to a bolted belay.
Pitch 5 is the psychological crux with tender-footed 5.8 slab climbing which angles left over crusty granite past (5) 3/16 inch bolts. (Replaced all 1/4” bolts)
Three raps (TWO ROPES!) take you down to the left of the route or you may walk off.
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