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Penstemon Dome
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Captain America T,S 
No Zukes T 

Captain America 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Greg Vernon, Mike Baca 1987
Page Views: 645
Submitted By: Steve Gade on Aug 3, 2012

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Pitch 3, the reason you came

Description 

Start by climbing the crack (5.8) in the center of the dome. Belay on a spacious ledge by slinging a chockstone at the back or build an anchor near the front to avoid rope drag.

Pitch 2 (5.7) takes you left around a corner and then angles up and left along an obvious crack. Build a belay behind a very thick flake/block but consider backing it up in the nearby crack.

Pitch 3 (5.10a) opens with the technical crux and then backs off to 5.8 lay-back past two bonsai trees. If you have a 60m rope, belay under the roof (continue with a 70m).

Pull the roof (bolt) on Pitch 4 (5.8)and lay-back to a bolted belay.

Pitch 5 is the psychological crux with tender-footed 5.8 slab climbing which angles left over crusty granite past (5) 3/16 inch bolts.

Three raps (TWO ROPES!) take you down to the left of the route or you may walk off.

Location 

This is the most obvious natural line up the middle of Penstemon dome. Start 100' left of the large sugar pine.

Protection 

Standard rack


Photos of Captain America Slideshow Add Photo
Captain America charges straight up the prow of Penstemon Dome
BETA PHOTO: Captain America charges straight up the prow of Pe...
Top of Pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Top of Pitch 2
Making the move to the chains at the top of pitch 5.
BETA PHOTO: Making the move to the chains at the top of pitch ...

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