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Capitol Reef National Park

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Basketball Wall/Slickrock Divide 
Borderlands, The 
Capital Gorge Boulders 
Capitol Gorge 
Chimney Rock Canyon 
Cockscomb Ridge Area 
Grand Wash Area 
Grand Wash Boulders 
Miscellaneous Routes Scattered Around 
Observatory, The 
Terrible Twos Wall 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Lakeshore Trail Section 1
A very easy, family-friendly trail alongside Fish Lake. Near Loa, Utah
Behind the Reef Road
An easy ride providing access to magnificent slot canyons. Near Ferron, Utah
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Capitol Reef National Park Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.2843, -111.2477 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 28,202
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Paul Nelson on Aug 25, 2002
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Capitol Reef from above Fruita

Description 

Capitol Reef National Park has a fair selection of good Wingate crack routes. The only detractions are sometimes long approaches, and an NPS moratorium on any new anchor bolting. There is also a moseratelt good bouldering area about fifteen minutes to the west of the park outside Bicknell.

Getting There 

Get to Capitol Reef either by way of highway 24 (from I-70 to Hanksville, and then west to the park), or by highway 50 (east off of I-15 from Scipio to Salina, and then southeast on highway 24 through Loa, Bicknell, and Torrey to the park).

Most (if not all) of the actual climbing areas are along the scenic drive, a paved road that goes along the backside of the reef south from the park visitor center.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 0.1 miles from here

43 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',4],['5.10',13],['5.11',6],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',7],['V2-3',7],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Capitol Reef National Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Capitol Reef National Park:
Left and Right Practice Cracks   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Terrible Twos Wall
Classic Handcrack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Capitol Gorge
Sharon's crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Terrible Twos Wall
False Premonitions    5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 90'   Capitol Gorge
BFF   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Grand Wash Area
Phi Slamma Jamma   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Basketball Wall/Slickrock D...
Capitol Roof   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Miscellaneous Routes Scatte...
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Capitol Reef National Park

Featured Route For Capitol Reef National Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Terrible Twos

Terrible Two's 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  UT : Capitol Reef National Park : Terrible Twos Wall
Definitely the best line at the crag. A distinct zig-zagging crack to the left of Thinner. Fairly sustained climbing with three distinct hard sections: 1) at the bottom getting to the first good stance, 2) at the traversing "Z" feature, and 3) the final fingery sprint to the anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Capitol Reef National Park Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Capitol Reef N.P. Photo by Blitzo.
Capitol Reef N.P. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Capitol Reef National Park. Photo by Blitzo.
Capitol Reef National Park. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Morman Dwelling-Capitol Reef National Park. Photo ...
Morman Dwelling-Capitol Reef National Park. Photo ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Navajo domes atop Wingate cliffs.
Navajo domes atop Wingate cliffs.
Rock Climbing Photo: Capital Reef N.P. Photo by Blitzo.
Capital Reef N.P. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Capitol Reef National Park Add Comment
Show which comments
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
May 26, 2013
Anybody climbed in Cathedral Valley? Looks spectacular but the rock maybe not so good. But better than the Fisher Towers?

terragalleria.com/parks/np-ima...
By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
Jun 5, 2013
George

Cathedral Valley is indeed spectacular. Unfortunately it is off limits to climbing. From the close non-climbing inspection I have done of it is indeed similar to the Fisher Towers. Folks may have climbed on it prior to its closure (I am unsure of when it was officially closed). There are very similar towers further east (and out of the Park) along the northern edge of the Moroni Slopes and near Salt Wash mountainproject.com/v/the-muds...

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