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 ADVANCED
Right Side Gully
Select Route:
Adaptive Expectations S 
Capitalism & Freedom S 
Classically Liberal S 
Consumption Dysfunction S 
Free to Choose S 
Invisible Hand S 
Natural Rate of Unemployment S 
Permanent Income Hypothesis S 
Rose T 

Capitalism & Freedom 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 155'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Romain Wacziarg & Matthew Fienup, February 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,001
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Marisa Fienup approaches the summit atop "Capitali...

Description 

Two sustained and varied pitches up the large formation on the left side of the gully, opposite "Permanent Income Hypothesis."

Pitch 1, "Capitalism" (5.10a/b, 80 feet, 5 bolts)
Steep, edgy face climbing. The crux is reaching and passing the second bolt. Belay at a ledge from bolts.

Pitch 2, "Freedom" (5.9, 85 feet, 8 bolts)
Face climbing, chimneying, and liebacking make for an extremely varied pitch. The faint of heart will want additional pro through the crux sequence above the fifth bolt (the crack takes a #1 TCU up to 1.5"). A thought-provoking, slabby finish takes you to an airy and exposed summit. Belay from bolts.

Location 

The route starts just a few feet left of "Permanent Income Hypothesis." Approach as for that route.

Two single rope rappels with a 60m rope will get you back to the start of the route. Descend from here by making one more rappel from the top of P1 of "Free to Choose."

Protection 

1/2" Rawl-style expansion bolts. An optional cam or two (tiny to 1.5")--the 2nd pitch crux is not optimally protected because the rock near the crux is not solid enough to yield a reliable bolt.


Photos of Capitalism & Freedom Slideshow Add Photo
Capitalism & Freedom topo
Capitalism & Freedom topo
Another view of "Capitalism & Freedom,"  made from 2 photos stitched together (hence the white area).
BETA PHOTO: Another view of "Capitalism & Freedom," made from...
hanging out at the first belay. Gabi, Jamie, and Andrea
hanging out at the first belay. Gabi, Jamie, and A...
Romain Wacziarg seconds the first pitch of "Capitalism & Freedom" during the route's first ascent.
Romain Wacziarg seconds the first pitch of "Capita...
Kelly Ringwald + unknown partner enjoying the view after an early ascent of Capitalism & Freedom in April'07.
Kelly Ringwald + unknown partner enjoying the view...
Romain Wacziarg nears the top of "Capitalism & Freedom" during the route's first ascent.
Romain Wacziarg nears the top of "Capitalism & Fre...
Carolyn Libuser enters the crux sequence on the first pitch of Capitalism & Freedom.
Carolyn Libuser enters the crux sequence on the fi...
Capitalism and Freedom, 2nd pitch at the chimney / lieback section.
BETA PHOTO: Capitalism and Freedom, 2nd pitch at the chimney /...
jamie concentrating on the balancey first pitch
jamie concentrating on the balancey first pitch

Comments on Capitalism & Freedom Add Comment
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 12, 2007

This formation gets my vote as the coolest summit that has been climbed thus far--GREAT position and great view of the other routes.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 22, 2007

"Capitalism" consists of the softest rock of any of the routes put up so far. Expect this pitch to change as it cleans up. The current difficulty rating is dependent upon a few small holds that may or may not last.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 2, 2007

The sequence that I use passing the second bolt is still intact and should last. Pull on positive, opposing side-pulls, hike your feet up, and reach for a good edge near the third bolt (5.10a).

This pitch is better than I remembered!
By Kelly Ringwald
Apr 11, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Excellent climb matt. Particularly enjoyed the chance to sink a jam or two (and even a pointless cam) on the second pitch. I thought 10.a was pretty fair for the first pitch, don't remember any tricky moves, and 10.b is about where I start to notice.

Watch your step at the base of this one, nearly stepped on a baby rattler all coiled up and invisible on the way out.

Climbed it again and I agree, it's got the best summit and climbing of all the Fortress routes. PIH is a close second just for the exposure on the arete though. Great stuff.
By Eileen
From: Ventura, California
Apr 20, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

I thought the first pitch could deserve a 10a/b rating. I thought so the first time I went up but now that I've done it twice I'm even more leaning towards a 10a/b rating.

Definitely a lovely view!
By Romain Wacziarg
Apr 28, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

I led this for the second time yesterday and agree with those who lean towards a 10b rating for P1. Some stuff may have broken off, too, between bolts 2 and 3.
By Romain Wacziarg
Apr 2, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

It is possible to link the two pitches as one with a 60 meter rope. This makes for a great, continuous climb with little or no rope drag. Highly recommended.
By Rob Chaney
Apr 15, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Climbed this route 4/14/2008, on the first pitch there are several clean spots threw the crux sequence looks like flakes have broken off. I have climbed this before and it seem s harder now. there seems to be no good feet wile pulling the crux move. Definitely 10b.

Also we rapped off the back side to the base of Seven Steps to Heaven and got a nice bonus climb. Then rapped back down into the right side gully from the top of Seven Steps.

Climbed this one again on 4/18/2009 and after looking at the broken off flakes they look pretty aged and not recently broken off. the crux sequence is as Matthew decribes in his comment on 3/2/2007 but still I give it a 10b ratting.
By Maidy
Jun 24, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Super fun climb. We actually just climbed it as one long pitch. The rock quality actually seemed pretty good. A few though-provoking moves both at the bottom and in the top dihedral.

We actually did a single rappel with a 70 meter from Natural Rate's anchor after topping out. We just lowered the follower(me)the 10 feet to the tree, then the leader did a mini rappel while I threaded the anchor to save time. There was a little spare rope on the ground, so I'm *guessing* it probably would have been OK from the tip-top anchor as well (with zero rope to spare) but we weren't 100% sure so we used the lower anchor.