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Capen Park

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Capen Park 


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Lat, Long: 38.9306, -92.3207 Map Incorrect?
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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Bryan Hall on Oct 22, 2008
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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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June 2011 -
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Description 

Small crag with about 20 routes and around 75' tall. Most of the routes are tope roped due to poor limestone rock quality. Very easy access for anyone, so beware of non-climbers at the top of the cliffs.

There are a few bolts on top of the cliff but expect to build natural anchors off the trees up top.


Getting There 

From the University of Missouri - Columbia: Head south on S College Avenue crossing through the intersection with E Stadium Rd. College Avenue becomes S Rock Quarry Rd. Drive past the quarry and Capen Park is down a very short dirt road on your left.

1 minute approach from parking. Walk down to the creek to look up at the routes or just head to the top and drop your ropes if you know what you want to set up.


14 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',2],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Capen Park:
Russian Vault   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     TR, 75'   
The Open Book   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Classics in Capen Park

Featured Route For Capen Park
Michael McKay stands below Open Book (5.10) at Capen Park

The Open Book 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b  MO : Capen Park
Bouldery start up pocketed limestone to a small alcove. From there head out the roof crack into the "Open Book" dihedral above. Top out to complete the crux!...[more]   Browse More Classics in MO

Photos of Capen Park Slideshow Add Photo
Michael McKay enjoys steep climbing on Midwest limestone (Capen Park, Missouri)
Michael McKay enjoys steep climbing on Midwest lim...
Comments on Capen Park Add Comment
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By James Dolph
From: Columbia, MO
Nov 8, 2008

there are actually 38 posted routes at this park. i'll do my best to add them to mountain project. there is a sport crag located near the main cliff that has 10 sport routes on it ranging from 5.5 to 5.11. the main cliff has 28 routes and all of these can be found at

www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Miss>>>

this should hold everyone over until i can get the routes posted