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DescriptionSmall crag with about 20 routes and around 75' tall. Most of the routes are tope roped due to poor limestone rock quality. Very easy access for anyone, so beware of non-climbers at the top of the cliffs. Getting ThereFrom the University of Missouri - Columbia: Head south on S College Avenue crossing through the intersection with E Stadium Rd. College Avenue becomes S Rock Quarry Rd. Drive past the quarry and Capen Park is down a very short dirt road on your left. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Capen Park:
Jay's Dyno V3-4 Boulder, 1 pitch, 15 feet
Hard Traverse V4- Boulder, 20 feet
Mister Easy 5.7+ TR, 75 feet
Bon Voyage 5.8 TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet
Russian Vault 5.8 TR, 75 feet
Three Horns Direct 5.9 TR, 50 feet
Sunshine 5.9+ TR, 1 pitch, 18 feet
Solution Pocket 5.10b TR, 40 feet
The Open Book 5.10+ Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75 feet
White Lightning 5.11a TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Featured Route For Capen Park
The Open Book 5.10+ MO : Capen Park
Bouldery start up pocketed limestone to a small alcove. From there head out the roof crack into the "Open Book" dihedral above. Top out to complete the crux!...[more] Browse More Classics in MO
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