Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
CM: Capen Park

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ape Man TR 
Bon Voyage TR 
Butt Slammer TR 
Hard Traverse  
Jay's Dyno 
Levitation 
Mister Easy TR 
Open Book, The T,TR 
Russian Vault TR 
Solution Pocket TR 
Straight Up TR 
Sunshine TR 
Three Horns T,TR 
Three Horns Direct TR 
White Lightning TR 
Unsorted Routes:
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Blue Loop
Quick singletrack with a few rocky climbs. Near Saint Martins, Missouri
Binder Lake Trail System
A ride that combines all four loops at Binder Lake. Near Saint Martins, Missouri
Green Loop
Quick and flowing singletrack with minimal climbing. Near Saint Martins, Missouri
Yellow Loop
A fun loop with tight switchbacks and a scenic shoreline section. Near Saint Martins, Missouri
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

CM: Capen Park Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.9306, -92.3207 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,974
Administrators: Dave Hug, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bryan Hall on Oct 22, 2008
Forecast:
Today

69° | 44°
Thursday

70° | 49°
Friday

80° | 58°
Saturday

82° | 58°
Sunday

75° | 58°
Monday

76° | 61°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
June 2011 - The 13-year cicadas recently emerged a...

Description 

Small crag with about 20 routes and around 75' tall. Most of the routes are tope roped due to poor limestone rock quality. Very easy access for anyone, so beware of non-climbers at the top of the cliffs.

There are a few bolts on top of the cliff but expect to build natural anchors off the trees up top.

Getting There 

From the University of Missouri - Columbia: Head south on S College Avenue crossing through the intersection with E Stadium Rd. College Avenue becomes S Rock Quarry Rd. Drive past the quarry and Capen Park is down a very short dirt road on your left.

1 minute approach from parking. Walk down to the creek to look up at the routes or just head to the top and drop your ropes if you know what you want to set up.

Guidebook 

Rock Climbing Photo: To purchase, click here

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 0.8 miles from here

15 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',2],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in CM: Capen Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for CM: Capen Park:
Russian Vault   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 75'   
The Open Book   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in CM: Capen Park

Featured Route For CM: Capen Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Route topo for the Russian Vault, at Capen Park.  ...

Russian Vault 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  MO : CM: Capen Park
Start on the left facing flake that is located 10 feet left of the start of Mister Easy. Climb this and the slab above until you mantel onto a ledge beneath a large overhang. Step 5 feet left and then climb up into the vault. Angle back to the right on giant holds until reaching the top.It is possible to bypass the crux of this route by moving right on the aforementioned ledge and then climbing easier rock to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in MO

Photos of CM: Capen Park Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Michael McKay enjoys steep climbing on Midwest lim...
Michael McKay enjoys steep climbing on Midwest lim...

Comments on CM: Capen Park Add Comment
Show which comments
By James Dolph
From: Columbia, MO
Nov 8, 2008
there are actually 38 posted routes at this park. i'll do my best to add them to mountain project. there is a sport crag located near the main cliff that has 10 sport routes on it ranging from 5.5 to 5.11. the main cliff has 28 routes and all of these can be found at

rockclimbing.com/routes/North_...

this should hold everyone over until i can get the routes posted

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!