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Capen Park

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Ape Man TR 
Bon Voyage TR 
Butt Slammer TR 
Hard Traverse  
Jay's Dyno 
Mister Easy TR 
Open Book, The T,TR 
Russian Vault TR 
Solution Pocket TR 
Straight Up TR 
Sunshine TR 
Three Horns T,TR 
Three Horns Direct TR 
White Lightning TR 

Capen Park  


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Location: 38.9306, -92.3207 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,336
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bryan Hall on Oct 22, 2008
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Description 

Small crag with about 20 routes and around 75' tall. Most of the routes are tope roped due to poor limestone rock quality. Very easy access for anyone, so beware of non-climbers at the top of the cliffs.

There are a few bolts on top of the cliff but expect to build natural anchors off the trees up top.

Getting There 

From the University of Missouri - Columbia: Head south on S College Avenue crossing through the intersection with E Stadium Rd. College Avenue becomes S Rock Quarry Rd. Drive past the quarry and Capen Park is down a very short dirt road on your left.

1 minute approach from parking. Walk down to the creek to look up at the routes or just head to the top and drop your ropes if you know what you want to set up.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.8 miles from here

14 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',2],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Capen Park:
Russian Vault   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 75'   
The Open Book   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Classics in Capen Park

Featured Route For Capen Park
Route topo for the Russian Vault, at Capen Park.  The yellow dots indicate an easier variation at the top.

Russian Vault 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  MO : Capen Park
Start on the left facing flake that is located 10 feet left of the start of Mister Easy. Climb this and the slab above until you mantel onto a ledge beneath a large overhang. Step 5 feet left and then climb up into the vault. Angle back to the right on giant holds until reaching the top.It is possible to bypass the crux of this route by moving right on the aforementioned ledge and then climbing easier rock to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in MO

Photos of Capen Park Slideshow Add Photo
Michael McKay enjoys steep climbing on Midwest limestone (Capen Park, Missouri)
Michael McKay enjoys steep climbing on Midwest lim...

Comments on Capen Park Add Comment
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By James Dolph
From: Columbia, MO
Nov 8, 2008
there are actually 38 posted routes at this park. i'll do my best to add them to mountain project. there is a sport crag located near the main cliff that has 10 sport routes on it ranging from 5.5 to 5.11. the main cliff has 28 routes and all of these can be found at

rockclimbing.com/routes/North_...

this should hold everyone over until i can get the routes posted