Login with Facebook
Capen Park

Select Route:
Ape Man TR 
Bon Voyage TR 
Butt Slammer TR 
Hard Traverse  
Jay's Dyno 
Mister Easy TR 
Open Book, The T,TR 
Russian Vault TR 
Solution Pocket TR 
Straight Up TR 
Sunshine TR 
Three Horns T,TR 
Three Horns Direct TR 
White Lightning TR 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Kelley Branch Mountain Bike Trail
A short trail with constant sharp turns and short but very steep climbs. Near Hallsville, MO
Blue Loop
Quick singletrack with a few rocky climbs. Near Jefferson City, MO
Red Loop
A short loop full of fun technical sections. Near Jefferson City, MO
Binder Lake Trail System
A ride that combines all four loops at Binder Lake. Near Saint Martins, MO
Green Loop
Quick and flowing singletrack with minimal climbing. Near Jefferson City, MO
Yellow Loop
A fun loop with tight switchbacks and a scenic shoreline section. Near Jefferson City, MO
From MP's sister site: MTB Project
Mountain Project has launched a new site: Powder Project, and we're giving away loads of gear, including skis & Oakley goggles. Check it out!

Capen Park  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.9306, -92.3207 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,662
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bryan Hall on Oct 22, 2008
Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat
77° | 48°
78° | 63°
68° | 51°
52° | 33°
65° | 44°
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
June 2011 - The 13-year cicadas recently emerged a...


Small crag with about 20 routes and around 75' tall. Most of the routes are tope roped due to poor limestone rock quality. Very easy access for anyone, so beware of non-climbers at the top of the cliffs.

There are a few bolts on top of the cliff but expect to build natural anchors off the trees up top.

Getting There 

From the University of Missouri - Columbia: Head south on S College Avenue crossing through the intersection with E Stadium Rd. College Avenue becomes S Rock Quarry Rd. Drive past the quarry and Capen Park is down a very short dirt road on your left.

1 minute approach from parking. Walk down to the creek to look up at the routes or just head to the top and drop your ropes if you know what you want to set up.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.8 miles from here

14 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Capen Park:
Russian Vault   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 75'   
The Open Book   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Classics in Capen Park

Featured Route For Capen Park
Michael McKay stands below Open Book (5.10) at Cap...

The Open Book 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  MO : Capen Park
Bouldery start up pocketed limestone to a small alcove. From there head out the roof crack into the "Open Book" dihedral above. Top out to complete the crux!...[more]   Browse More Classics in MO

Photos of Capen Park Slideshow Add Photo
Michael McKay enjoys steep climbing on Midwest lim...
Michael McKay enjoys steep climbing on Midwest lim...

Comments on Capen Park Add Comment
Show which comments
By James Dolph
From: Columbia, MO
Nov 8, 2008
there are actually 38 posted routes at this park. i'll do my best to add them to mountain project. there is a sport crag located near the main cliff that has 10 sport routes on it ranging from 5.5 to 5.11. the main cliff has 28 routes and all of these can be found at


this should hold everyone over until i can get the routes posted
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!