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Capen Park

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ape Man TR 
Bon Voyage TR 
Butt Slammer TR 
Hard Traverse  
Jay's Dyno 
Mister Easy TR 
Open Book, The T,TR 
Russian Vault TR 
Solution Pocket TR 
Straight Up TR 
Sunshine TR 
Three Horns T,TR 
Three Horns Direct TR 
White Lightning TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Capen Park Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.9306, -92.3207 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,733
Administrators: Dave Hug, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bryan Hall on Oct 22, 2008
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Best climbs for YOU in this area
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June 2011 - The 13-year cicadas recently emerged a...


Small crag with about 20 routes and around 75' tall. Most of the routes are tope roped due to poor limestone rock quality. Very easy access for anyone, so beware of non-climbers at the top of the cliffs.

There are a few bolts on top of the cliff but expect to build natural anchors off the trees up top.

Getting There 

From the University of Missouri - Columbia: Head south on S College Avenue crossing through the intersection with E Stadium Rd. College Avenue becomes S Rock Quarry Rd. Drive past the quarry and Capen Park is down a very short dirt road on your left.

1 minute approach from parking. Walk down to the creek to look up at the routes or just head to the top and drop your ropes if you know what you want to set up.


Rock Climbing Photo: To purchase, click here

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 0.8 miles from here

15 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Capen Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Capen Park:
Russian Vault   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 75'   
The Open Book   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Capen Park

Featured Route For Capen Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Michael McKay stands below Open Book (5.10) at Cap...

The Open Book 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  MO : B. Central Missouri : Capen Park
Bouldery start up pocketed limestone to a small alcove. From there head out the roof crack into the "Open Book" dihedral above. Top out to complete the crux!...[more]   Browse More Classics in MO

Photos of Capen Park Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Michael McKay enjoys steep climbing on Midwest lim...
Michael McKay enjoys steep climbing on Midwest lim...

Comments on Capen Park Add Comment
Show which comments
By James Dolph
From: Columbia, MO
Nov 8, 2008
there are actually 38 posted routes at this park. i'll do my best to add them to mountain project. there is a sport crag located near the main cliff that has 10 sport routes on it ranging from 5.5 to 5.11. the main cliff has 28 routes and all of these can be found at

this should hold everyone over until i can get the routes posted

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