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CM: Capen Park

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ape Man TR 
Bon Voyage TR 
Butt Slammer TR 
Hard Traverse  
Jay's Dyno 
Mister Easy TR 
Open Book, The T,TR 
Russian Vault TR 
Solution Pocket TR 
Straight Up TR 
Sunshine TR 
Three Horns T,TR 
Three Horns Direct TR 
White Lightning TR 
Unsorted Routes:
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Blue Loop
Quick singletrack with a few rocky climbs. Near Saint Martins, Missouri
Green Loop
Quick and flowing singletrack with minimal climbing. Near Saint Martins, Missouri
Binder Lake Trail System
A ride that combines all four loops at Binder Lake. Near Saint Martins, Missouri
Yellow Loop
A fun loop with tight switchbacks and a scenic shoreline section. Near Saint Martins, Missouri
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

CM: Capen Park Rock Climbing 

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Location: 38.9306, -92.3207 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,963
Administrators: Dave Hug, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bryan Hall on Oct 22, 2008
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Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Small crag with about 20 routes and around 75' tall. Most of the routes are tope roped due to poor limestone rock quality. Very easy access for anyone, so beware of non-climbers at the top of the cliffs.

There are a few bolts on top of the cliff but expect to build natural anchors off the trees up top.

Getting There 

From the University of Missouri - Columbia: Head south on S College Avenue crossing through the intersection with E Stadium Rd. College Avenue becomes S Rock Quarry Rd. Drive past the quarry and Capen Park is down a very short dirt road on your left.

1 minute approach from parking. Walk down to the creek to look up at the routes or just head to the top and drop your ropes if you know what you want to set up.


Rock Climbing Photo: To purchase, click here

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 0.8 miles from here

15 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in CM: Capen Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for CM: Capen Park:
Russian Vault   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 75'   
The Open Book   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in CM: Capen Park

Featured Route For CM: Capen Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Michael McKay climbs through the opening layback s...

Three Horns 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  MO : CM: Capen Park
Lieback up the obvious right-facing flake just right of BonVoyage to a small roof. Traverse right under the roof. Mantle up on a small shelf and move straight to the top on a slightly overhanging rock. The name ThreeHorns is a bit misleading for this route. The first horn is a little shorter than it used to be. A local climber, TomEvans, was doing this route when much to his surprise he pulled off most of the first horn! The belayer was rudely awakened by the rock fall. The second horn is still ...[more]   Browse More Classics in MO

Photos of CM: Capen Park Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Michael McKay enjoys steep climbing on Midwest lim...
Michael McKay enjoys steep climbing on Midwest lim...

Comments on CM: Capen Park Add Comment
Show which comments
By James Dolph
From: Columbia, MO
Nov 8, 2008
there are actually 38 posted routes at this park. i'll do my best to add them to mountain project. there is a sport crag located near the main cliff that has 10 sport routes on it ranging from 5.5 to 5.11. the main cliff has 28 routes and all of these can be found at

this should hold everyone over until i can get the routes posted

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