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One of the best and most popular places for taking beginning climbers, a great moderate boulder circuit and some of the most classic boulder problems in the park make this a popular destination. A good selection of routes of all sorts (slabs, cracks, faces), blissfully short approaches and a great concentration of boulders mean you probably won't be alone but also mean that there's always enough to go around.
Head S/E on Quail Springs Road past Hidden Valley. At the Key's view turnoff/fork, turn right and after only about 100 yards make a left into a dirt parking lot. Cap Rock is directly in front of you, and a developed loop trail provides access to the bouldering circuit(s).
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cap Rock:
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Slim Pickings 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Cap Rock - South Face
The right-hand crack.A strenuous move starts the crack, which then relents. Up to the horizontal crack and the last of the gear protection.A new concept begins; a tricky move begins the thin edging past 2 bolts to the crux, and, relenting slightly past one more bolt to the chain anchors.Rappel off the anchor....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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