Canyon Diablo Rock Climbing
A typical scene of untouched walls.
|Reservation land just south and then north of RR bridge MORE INFO >>>|
Canyon Diablo is a rough and tumble little canyon with a checkered past. This rocky oasis in the flat lands east of Flagstaff sports a lot of rock, but as of yet, not a whole lot of development. The sandstone doesn't wield the fine assortment of holds of similar stone in the area. Instead there tend to be beautiful blank faces with little to grasp. Exceptions to rule exist, of course, and there may be some really hard routes down there just waiting for the right set eyes to pick them out.
Established boulder problems and TRs exist throughout the canyon with Ira's Traverse V4ish (FA Ira Hickman),and the super long Power Alley established by John Sherman, standing out as notable classics.
This canyon was used by horse thieves and bandits in the wild west days, and distillers during prohibition. And while it is wild, I wouldn't call it pristine by any stretch. A good place to change things up, especially when everything around Flag is wet.
Tim Toula's, A Cheap Way To Fly has a map with established routes.
From Flagstaff drive approximately 30 miles east on Interstate 40 to the Two Guns exit. Head north on Indian Rt. 6930, and the canyon is obviously off to your left. Several options for parking via dirt side roads. Follow game trails down into it.
Weather station 11.9 miles from here
Featured Route For Canyon Diablo
The railroad bridge at the north end.
Random undeveloped walls.
Canyon Diablo and the San Francisco Peaks.
By Dirty Puddle
Feb 21, 2011
Checked this place out, thought the bouldering potential was there, but rock quality was not always the best. Definitely an area worth hiking to check out its many different climbing potentials =).
By Jeff Ludwig
From: phoenix, Az
Mar 21, 2011
I believe the rock here is limestone. Take the road mentioned above to a barbedwire fence then follow west to canyon rim. North of this fence is the REZ. I've been out here a few times. Check out Hangdog Pinata. Funny story ; Ron Dawson, Dave Gershwin and I were out here scoping routes. Ron was cleaning a line, trundling loose blocks when we heard a loud hissing sound. WTF? One of the blocks hit our 12 pack and beer was spraying everywhere! We quickly shotguned the escaping liquid and saved the day. Seriously, there are several limestone canyons that snake north off of Anderson mesa that probably hold much potential. Just to confirm the wild west ambiance, Newman, Gershwin and I were scoping the Moenkopi blocks north of the rest stop on I-40 and found a petroglyph of a hangman with a prisoner # on a small block. Reference the "hanging judge of Winslow"
We were also chased off by Navajo landowners and told not to come back without a permit.