|151 page views|
If you don't mind a dyno crux and a little loose rock, you might like Cantaloupe.
Cool granite pockets and edges set you up on a fragile left hand edge and a soapy right hand undercling. Hike you feet absurdly high, and dyno up and right to a generous incut bucket. Follow decent holds right towards a small corner, and use some slick slopers and strangely non-ergonomic holds to mantle over the roof. Once you are above the roof, move right again using more frustratingly awkward holds, until you reach some generous sidepulls. Good but well spaced holds lead to the chains.
This route has great movement and really interesting holds. However, the rock is still cleaning up - especially up high. After a bunch of ascents and some cleaning, this route will probably end up being a bit harder and deserve at least an extra quality star.
This is on the far right side of the Red Faction Wall.
Bolts and a bolted anchor with fixed carabiners for lowering.