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This route starts with a left-facing dihedral that doesn't look like much fun to climb. It's not so bad. After about 20 feet it switches to a right-facing dihedral and the climbing improves. After thrutching through an easy chimney you'll be faced with the crux bulge in the dihedral. Climb the crack in the corner and not the one that branches up and to the right (although that looks like a fun variation).
This route is about 100ft to the right of Horticulture. It's the first major dihedral to the right of that route. Rap using a 60m rope from the two-bolt rappel anchor to descend. Be careful with the rap in two ways: it'll take all of a 60m rope to get down and the crack through the bulge is a rope eater (someone recently got their cord stuck in the crack; you'll see remnants of it when you're below the bulge). One can also walkoff to the climber's right.
Standard rack to a #2 Camalot works nicely. Doubles in #0.75 and #1 Camalots would be useful as well as Aliens underneath the bulge. There's a two-bolt rappel anchor at the top.
|By Sam Benedict|
From: Denver, CO
Sep 13, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
I reckon its a good idear to belay under the roof as a short second pitch, otherwise you could easily hit the ramp with 60' of rope stretch.
The hardest moves are getting of the ramp and into the crack, fairly awkward.