Omega is one of the classic hard winter routes in New England. This ephermal icefall comes into shape perhaps once or twice a season, and can disappear with a day's rain or sun. The first pitch (full 60 m) climbs a thinly iced slab up to a cave (fixed pins--backup with gear). Depending on conditions, this may involve somewhat desperate drytooling. The second pitch can be done as a very long pitch or broken up into two pitches. It traverses left out of the cave onto sustained and steep colum...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
There are a couple of new routes on Cannon. one is left of Omega near the giant right facing corner of Henderson's Buttress. The climbed is called Mean Streak and it probably a WIE7M8? It difficult to say the least. Andy Tuthill and ? did the route. I think it was 2010. The other route was done by Mark Richey and ?. Its recent. I don't know its name or its location. There's a you tube video of the ascent. It looks like there on the south side somewhere.
Perhaps someone would be willing to do some Mountain Project write-ups of these routes? This would be great for the Mark Richey / Freddie Wilkinson ascent north of Omega as I have found the least information on this particular climb. Icarus, Daedalus, the Minotaur, and Mean Streak all have great topos and route descriptions on other sites and blogs. I feel that our online guidebook is especially lacking as far as Cannon's winter alpine world is concerned. These are some of greatest marks of New England alpinism, and I would very much like to see them cataloged here.