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YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Scott Frye
Page Views: 727
Submitted By: Rob Eison on Dec 24, 2011
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A technical masterpiece of face-climbing wizardry exemplifying the best Donner has to offer. This is the first route in the Cannibals Gully to the right of the "Little Feat" arete. Work up into a shallow right-facing dihedral, then follow the left trending panel on a series of thin liebacks and underclings. Tackle the thuggish, devious boulder problem with seemingly nonexistent feet which then deposits you at a "thank god" jug for recovery at half heighth. The upper face challenges you with a series of small crimps, side pulls, small pinches and finally the infamous "peanut," none of which will do you much good unless you deduce the footwork trickery.

Hard for the grade.


Among the east face climbs just to the right of the "Little Feat" arete in the Cannibals Gully.


About 8 quickdraws and 2 for the anchors

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By peachy spohn
Aug 25, 2012

An amazing route. The "Corner of Hell" is the hardest part, but the peanut at the top is a heart breaker! Definitely harder than 12d, but I guess you got to go with the flow.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Nov 30, 2012

^^^^^ "Harder than 12d"

Indeed all the locals know full well that Cannibals is 5.13, but they will all nevertheless state to you in person that it is 12d with a *wink, wink*....tradition I guess. This includes Mr. Eison who entered the route (and broke a good foothold while running laps on the route) and my friend, Mr. Kennedy (aka Sergeant Sandbag) who is a longtime local. I think most routes put up by Mr. Frye are graded as "Scott Frye 5.xx" with everyone knowing that it is code for "the route is hard for the grade".

By Rob Eison
From: Denver, CO
Dec 6, 2012

Guilty as charged on all counts! I succumbed to the brainwashing as well. I bet Russ is still grumbling about the foot chip...

By RyanPaul
Aug 5, 2013

Loaded with hard climbing from the ground to the top. My vote for the best sport route anywhere. My wife was thrilled to belay my final attempt because she new that I would finally be done spending so much time with a four year mistress who occupied so much of my time, thoughts, and passion. Ruthless at 12.d but oh so sweet that it will always remain so!

By peachy spohn
Aug 31, 2013

Just as amazing as I remember and What a great climb. It was colder than last August and the holds were much tackier!

By Schwisow
From: Incline Village, NV
Nov 27, 2013

A few years back Seth led the direct start on small gear just right of Little Feat. A small crack that doesnt use any of Little feat holds. Try it out. 13- i think he said.