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Candyman 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mike Johnson
Page Views: 1,647
Submitted By: pancho on Aug 15, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Candyman solo.

Seasonal Closures - some are lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

As you enter the Slash via the short slab/gully, this climb is one of two that ascend the steep wall on your right. The climb on the right is The Deal (5.11d), and 10 feet left is The Candyman.

Located above boulder problems in the Slash, this short climb relies completely on pockets to reach the anchors. There is not a single crux, and if you can boulder to the first pin you can do this climb. The only thing to think about is falling while clipping the third pin, there is a chance you might hit the wall behind you. If you are worried about this, just rest at the second pin, as the climbing above is easy unless you are pumped from the first section.

Protection 

3 pins to a 2 pin cable anchor.


Photos of Candyman Slideshow Add Photo
Candyman.
Candyman.
BETA PHOTO
Top rope, nice ledge to belay off of.
Top rope, nice ledge to belay off of.
Climber: Bo Parsons. <br />Photographer: Dancesatmoonrise.
Climber: Bo Parsons. Photographer: Dancesatmoonris...

Comments on Candyman Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 23, 2014
By Larry Shaw
Sep 2, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Nice pocket pulling, weird at first trying to figure out which pockets are good or bad. Almost all of them are filled with sand. Just a bit runnout to the third bolt but reasonable.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 6, 2004

Runout by Shelf standards perhaps, but very well protected by garden standards.
By Stewart M. Green
Jun 8, 2005

Candyman has new anchors. Stewart Green and Brian Shelton replaced the old pitons and worn cable with stainless steel bolts and descending rings. The first piton, which fell out 6 years ago, was also replaced with a modern bolt anchor. Thanks to Climbing Magazine and Petzl for donating the hardware.
By Rik A.
Oct 24, 2005

Gear Alert
About that new first bolt that was put on the route. It SUCKS. I could almost pull it out with a good tug, and currently removed the hanger so no one will trust that piece of #@$% BOLT. If you were to fall on it, it would pull out and produce and groud fall so.... skip it and clip the old piton that is half way out. Just like it has been for years.
By Dan Dalton
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 4, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The first bolt has been re-done and is much better now. The piton is gone. Fairly safe, except for the slight runout to the last bolt. Make sure to rest before clipping the 4th bolt and moving on.
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Aug 16, 2008

This is one of the funnest routes in the Garden!!! Perfect, sandy pocket pulling.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
May 12, 2009

Sa-weet! Sick of the slabby stuff? Want some pocket pulling reminiscent of shelf? do this!
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 22, 2011

Fantastic climb! Great movement, but choose your holds wisely....
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Sep 8, 2013

Hidden but great. So great. The best way to get around the runout is to just stem a little, but then you're set. Just watch out for sand (like always) near the top. Also, give it a few days after heavy rain to dry out.
By cslice
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 20, 2013

Anyone have any info on the third piton which, if I remember right, protects the crux of the route? It looks to be sticking out a little more than I'd like. It's not loose, but my understanding is they are supposed to be in the rock at least 75 percent, if not a lot more.
By James Tilton
From: Durango, CO
Jun 23, 2014

One of the best routes in the Garden in my opinion. Rarely sees traffic and stays cooler in the summer. If you're looking for a good workout from just a couple of runs up a route, this is a great choice: short and pump!