Candyman 5.10d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Mike Johnson |
| Submitted By: | pancho on Aug 15, 2004 |
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Description As you enter the Slash via the short slab/gully, this climb is one of two that ascend the steep wall on your right. The climb on the right is The Deal (5.11d), and 10 feet left is The Candyman.
Located above boulder problems in the Slash, this short climb relies completely on pockets to reach the anchors. There is not a single crux, and if you can boulder to the first pin you can do this climb. The only thing to think about is falling while clipping the third pin, there is a chance you might hit the wall behind you. If you are worried about this, just rest at the second pin, as the climbing above is easy unless you are pumped from the first section.
Protection 3 pins to a 2 pin cable anchor.
Candyman.
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Top rope, nice ledge to belay off of.
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Candyman solo.
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Climber: Bo Parsons.
Photographer: Dancesatmoonris...
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By Larry Shaw
Sep 2, 2004
rating: 5.10d
| Nice pocket pulling, weird at first trying to figure out which pockets are good or bad. Almost all of them are filled with sand. Just a bit runnout to the third bolt but reasonable. |
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 6, 2004
| Runout by Shelf standards perhaps, but very well protected by garden standards. |
By Stewart M. Green
Jun 8, 2005
| Candyman has new anchors. Stewart Green and Brian Shelton replaced the old pitons and worn cable with stainless steel bolts and descending rings. The first piton, which fell out 6 years ago, was also replaced with a modern bolt anchor. Thanks to Climbing Magazine and Petzl for donating the hardware. |
By Rik A.
Oct 24, 2005
Gear Alert
| About that new first bolt that was put on the route. It SUCKS. I could almost pull it out with a good tug, and currently removed the hanger so no one will trust that piece of #@$% BOLT. If you were to fall on it, it would pull out and produce and groud fall so.... skip it and clip the old piton that is half way out. Just like it has been for years. |
By Dan Dalton
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 4, 2007
rating: 5.10d
| The first bolt has been re-done and is much better now. The piton is gone. Fairly safe, except for the slight runout to the last bolt. Make sure to rest before clipping the 4th bolt and moving on. |
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Aug 16, 2008
| This is one of the funnest routes in the Garden!!! Perfect, sandy pocket pulling. |
By Phil Lauffen
From: Louyuppie
May 12, 2009
| Sa-weet! Sick of the slabby stuff? Want some pocket pulling reminiscent of shelf? do this! |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 22, 2011
| Fantastic climb! Great movement, but choose your holds wisely.... |
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