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Beaver Cleaver T 
C. W. Hicks Direct T 
Camptown Races (variation) T 
Candyland T 
Cat's Pajamas T 
Chameleon T 
Cinnamon Girl T 
Classic, The T 
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 
Coatimundi Whiteout T 
Crack Lover's Variation T 
Crisco Way T 
Deep Yogurt  T 
Good Action S 
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 
Green Savior T 
Gunsmoke T 
Hassayampa T 
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 
High Exposure Exit T,S 
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 
Kingpin T 
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 
Once Upon a Time T 
Reunion T 
Said and Done T 
Slammer Jam, The T 
Sweet Acidophilus T 
Tom Thumb T 
Triple Direct T 
Twin Cracks T 
Waterstreak Delight T,S 
Witblitz T 
Unsorted Routes:

Candyland 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 450', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FA: David Lovejoy, Dwight Bradley (1970) FFA: Karl Karlstrom, Rusty Baillie, David Lovejoy (1972)
Page Views: 13,274
Submitted By: Larry Coats on Sep 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Heather Hayes pulling the crux on the first pitch ...

Falcon Closures from February 2 until mid-July. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Candyland is the right-hand crack system that climbs to the Great Roof in the middle section of Granite Mountain, and exits the roof to the right.

Pitch 1: Climb up to the right end of a large flake and traverse it back left to the base of the main crack. Follow this crack through increasingly difficult jamming and stemming to the crux flakes near the bolt (5.10), through the overhang and to the belay on three modern bolts (thanks to efforts by Rusty Baillie).

Pitch 2: Clip a draw to the highest bolt and ooze into the severely flaring and insecure chimney above. Fortunately a couple modern microcams (.4's,.5's) fit into pockets in the degraded crack in the back, making the awkward moves above much less scary (back in the day bad #1 stoppers were it!). This short pitch ends at a solid two-bolt belay.

Pitch 3: Climb the obvious corner crack above- widening from thin hands to larger than fists. Belay on the amazing ledge below the Great Roof.

Pitch 4: Stem up the main corner, past a bald spot, to reach the roof, stuff in some small cams, and hand traverse rightwards as fast as your arm strength allows. Continue following the horizontal crack system around the corner to another amazing belay ledge on the main face. Arrange a belay with gear

Pitch 5: Head straight up the beautiful thin fingers to ringlocks crack before turning the roof-flake on the left. Be sure to runner the hand-sized piece under the roof to avoid rope drag on the long pitch above. Follow easier ground up the main crack system, passing a couple of ledgey areas, before gaining the final blank corner and the summit boulder problem. The route ends to the right of a pointed boulder that is the highest point on the entire crag.

Protection 

A typical Granite Mountain rack with wires and cams to #4 Camalot.


Photos of Candyland Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: view out the candyland side of the roof.
view out the candyland side of the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Take a deep breath, focus your mind, and sprint fo...
Take a deep breath, focus your mind, and sprint fo...
Rock Climbing Photo: The awkward crux chimney moves on the second pitch...
The awkward crux chimney moves on the second pitch...
Rock Climbing Photo: Exposed elegance- a climber pulls the roof/ flake ...
Exposed elegance- a climber pulls the roof/ flake ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Perfect gear, perfect jams, perfect rock- what mor...
Perfect gear, perfect jams, perfect rock- what mor...
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Baxter arrives at the first pitch stance in ...
Scott Baxter arrives at the first pitch stance in ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Horak pulling the roof in 1977 ...
Paul Horak pulling the roof in 1977 ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Randy finishing the great roof pitch
Randy finishing the great roof pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Another shot of the traverse
Another shot of the traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: A very young Larry Coats on the ledge below the Gr...
A very young Larry Coats on the ledge below the Gr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Recreated from memory about two weeks later.
BETA PHOTO: Recreated from memory about two weeks later.

Comments on Candyland Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tim H.
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Sep 15, 2011

P1: 5.10
P2: 5.9
P3: 5.9
P4: 5.7
P5: 5.9

You can always do the first few pitches of Coatimudni Whiteout until you get under the Great Roof and then go right instead of left, finishing up on Candyland. This keeps the rating around 5.9ish.
By jeffrey c gibson
From: pheonix az
Feb 1, 2012

I didn't think the approach was that bad....
By Matt Juaire
Aug 30, 2013

Coming from out of town (Tucson), any suggestions for this route?
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 31, 2013

Granite Mountain is closed because it was consumed by the Doce Fire this summer. The earliest it would possibly reopen would be the end of September.
By Nick Dolhyj 1
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 9, 2014

made it to the end of pitch 3 before a nasty monsoon took us by surprise, definitely going to come back and finish out the route! also got a silver bd nut stuck on pitch 2, enjoy clipping that to protect the weird crux move
By Miguel D
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 30, 2016

For my first time traversing the roof I felt a bit intimidated, but it I felt it was quite easy, and with good protection. There are small ledges for your feet almost the entire way to the belay ledge, felt maybe like 5.7 moves, if that

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