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The Citadel
Routes Sorted
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Candyland T 
Eliminator, The T 
Heart Of Norway T 
Picadilly Circus T 
Sanitarium T 
Stonewalled T 
Storming the Castle T 
Sunset Dihedral T 
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Candyland 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Kimball and Gary Sapp, 1984
Page Views: 323
Submitted By: paco on Jun 1, 2001

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Description 

A good route with a great crux pitch.

Approach as for Heart of Norway, but just before reaching it break left across a short but exposed low 5th class traverse. After this continue up and left to the base of the beautiful, left-slanting crack which is the start of the route. Fire up this crux pitch with some fantastic finger locks and a tricky wide section. One may rap from fixed anchors at this point, but the route has some interesting climbing after this also.

Pitch two, swim through a crack which is infested with lichen but continue to cleaner rock and a belly flop through a tunnel to find a nice belay ledge.

Pitch 3 heads out right to a mank bolt a few feet out on a slab. this bolt needs a replacement, although I found an okay #00 TCU placement right above it. Some nice (solid 5.9?) face climbing leads past the bolt and left to easier cracks and the summit.

Protection 

Bring your average Lumpy rack up to a #3 or #4 Camalot.


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