Candyland  5.10a

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  [Tom Hanson, late 1980s] Submitted By:  Ben Mottinger on May 20, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> As of March 7, 2012: Shakespearean Theater – restricted March, April, May. Mind Meld – restricted March, April, May. Porky’s Wall – restricted March, April, May, June. Vulture Wall – restricted March, April, May. Morning Sun Wall – restricted March, April, May, June, July. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Locate Candyland just around the corner from Chicken Wing Crack on the left (East-facing) side of the large, detached block.

Start in some pockets and cobbles on the face and squirm a #2 Friend into the first pocket. Now climb up to a small, slanting ledge with a very thin crack at its back (oh, just thought of something--a large Pika hook might be able to fit around this ledge/flake), but if you don't generally carry large hooks around, place the micro cam in the thin crack above the ledge). A few feet higher the #3 tricam can be fiddled into a large pocket on the face. It takes a minute to get it right, but it's pretty bomber. Now, take a deep breath and punch through the crux under the right-facing corner/roof up to a long horizontal finger crack. Place a good #1 Friend, then pull the roof to the top. This route is spicy (Cajun style) but does not get an "s" rating if you can place the micro cam and tricam properly.

The anchor on top can be made with two medium/large stoppers in a crack parallel to the cliff edge about 15 back and to the left. Use a long sling to get the rope over the edge.

Protection 

The pro is funky on this route, since it's listed as a toprope in the guidebook, but some flexible stem cams ;-0 and tricams can be fiddled into pockets and small horizontal breaks. Hard Grit, baby.

The following pieces work well: #0, 2, 1 Friends, #3 tricam.

Photos of Candyland Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Climb the face and over the roof.