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Neanderthal Wall
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Ada Jam 
Are You Experienced? 
Bad Ass Pi Man 
Cheater Five 
Chicken Wing Crack 
Cro-Mag Crack 
Fat Fingered And Overhung 
Fingers Have It, The 
Hanson's Folly 
Jackalopes and Preachers 
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Oh Face 
Outer Mongolia 
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Up the Red 
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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: [Tom Hanson, late 1980s]
Page Views: 671
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on May 20, 2001
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Locate Candyland just around the corner from Chicken Wing Crack on the left (East-facing) side of the large, detached block.

Start in some pockets and cobbles on the face and squirm a #2 Friend into the first pocket. Now climb up to a small, slanting ledge with a very thin crack at its back (oh, just thought of something--a large Pika hook might be able to fit around this ledge/flake), but if you don't generally carry large hooks around, place the micro cam in the thin crack above the ledge). A few feet higher the #3 tricam can be fiddled into a large pocket on the face. It takes a minute to get it right, but it's pretty bomber. Now, take a deep breath and punch through the crux under the right-facing corner/roof up to a long horizontal finger crack. Place a good #1 Friend, then pull the roof to the top. This route is spicy (Cajun style) but does not get an "s" rating if you can place the micro cam and tricam properly.

The anchor on top can be made with two medium/large stoppers in a crack parallel to the cliff edge about 15 back and to the left. Use a long sling to get the rope over the edge.


The pro is funky on this route, since it's listed as a toprope in the guidebook, but some flexible stem cams ;-0 and tricams can be fiddled into pockets and small horizontal breaks. Hard Grit, baby.

The following pieces work well: #0, 2, 1 Friends, #3 tricam.

Photos of Candyland Slideshow Add Photo
Climb the face and over the roof.
BETA PHOTO: Climb the face and over the roof.
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