Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
Candy-O, eh? My partner broke me off a chunk of that, trying to avoid the chunk I had been avoiding when I lead it. But it turns out, it was not the only choss around. A chunk twice the size of a basketball came down with several more chunks waiting for the next sucker....
The route is listed at 5.6, but by avoiding all the big, loose holds, it feels much harder. As well, the gear is poor - or at least no better than the rock around it. The route is more R than PG-13 in my opinion.
Still, as short as it is, it seems to take forever, most of the time associated with running around up on the slab trying to find something worthy of a belay. I eventually went left pretty far to get on the corner of the slab with 2 small trees and a thin cam, just above and left of 'Tiny Line.'
Overall, a certain waste of time.
At the left hand edge of the Lower Ramp, the wall goes vertical behind a small, twisted tree. There is an inset formed by 2 hanging dihedrals, with the left-facing one nearest the ramp being 'Candy-O' and the right-facing one 2 meters away in opposition being 'Lemon Line.' 'Tiny Line' is just left of these two and follows the straight and thin, vertical cracks up the wall.
This and that. A few nuts, a few cams. Take a cordalette to set a belay with. Retreat is a pain, and consists of finishing up the ramp, or taking out all the gear and down-soloing the part of the ramp as for the Ruper/Grand Giraffe approach.