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 ADVANCED
Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apprehension T 
Arcane Saw T 
Bitter Route, The T,TR 
Breakfast Of Champions T,TR 
Cabana Boy T 
Candy-O T 
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana T,TR 
Captain Crunch S 
Clyncke Punched a Hippy T 
Day Dream T,TR 
Dispensary, The T,S 
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation T 
Flakey Floont T,TR 
Flower Quarter T,TR 
Greaser, The T 
Hasting's Cutoff T 
Lemon Line T 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 
Loose Lucy T 
Lucid Dream T 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 
Mr. Natural T 
Over 'ed Power Line T 
Phee-nix T 
Pickpocket T,TR 
Quantum Mechanics T 
Real Men Eat Eggs T 
Remention T 
Rough Roof T 
Roving for Love T 
Schizophrenia T 
Senora (??) T,TR 
Senorita T,TR 
Shadow T 
Slimy Spoon, The T 
Strangle Hold T,S 
Sub Slab T 
Suparete T,S 
Super Natural T 
Super Slab Direct Start T 
Tiny Line T 
Toys for Tots T,S 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 
Velvet Hammer T 
Vertical Smile T 
Waking Sleep T 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 
Zombies on the Lookout T 

Candy-O 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jim Stuberg, solo, 1981
Season: Faces S/SE
Page Views: 141
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 18, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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  • Description 

    Candy-O, eh? My partner broke me off a chunk of that, trying to avoid the chunk I had been avoiding when I lead it. But it turns out, it was not the only choss around. A chunk twice the size of a basketball came down with several more chunks waiting for the next sucker....

    The route is listed at 5.6, but by avoiding all the big, loose holds, it feels much harder. As well, the gear is poor - or at least no better than the rock around it. The route is more R than PG-13 in my opinion.

    Still, as short as it is, it seems to take forever, most of the time associated with running around up on the slab trying to find something worthy of a belay. I eventually went left pretty far to get on the corner of the slab with 2 small trees and a thin cam, just above and left of 'Tiny Line.'

    Overall, a certain waste of time.

    Location 

    At the left hand edge of the Lower Ramp, the wall goes vertical behind a small, twisted tree. There is an inset formed by 2 hanging dihedrals, with the left-facing one nearest the ramp being 'Candy-O' and the right-facing one 2 meters away in opposition being 'Lemon Line.' 'Tiny Line' is just left of these two and follows the straight and thin, vertical cracks up the wall.

    Protection 

    This and that. A few nuts, a few cams. Take a cordalette to set a belay with. Retreat is a pain, and consists of finishing up the ramp, or taking out all the gear and down-soloing the part of the ramp as for the Ruper/Grand Giraffe approach.


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