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The Orc Wall
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Candelabra T 
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Candelabra 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dave Davis & Don O'Kelley, November 1971, FFA: John Long, April 1972
Page Views: 789
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 28, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Pulling on the flake....

Description 

The route is an obvious shallow corner which becomes a detached, hanging, thin, right- facing flake. It MIGHT be solid, but it doesn't look that way. Falling on cams behind it is a proposal of dubious wisdom, at best. Climb up on a few moderate moves in the shallow right-facing corner to reach the hanging flake. Move up onto this flake with jams and liebacks to reach the top (5.9) and move up through the first of two 'blank' bulges to reach a decent horizontal feature (10a) traverse left (5.7) here or pull a second roof (5.11?) and then traverse left (5.11?) to reach a weakness that leads to the top. Vogel's book depicts the 5.11 option I described and seems to be in error.

Once up top, move back to the North to clip the fixed anchor to belay. This is the rap anchor for the wall and can be extended to form a TR-point if desired.


Protection 

Best top-roped. The flake system can be 'protected' with dubous cams that might just rip-out and drop this 20-ton hanging flake on you.

If you lead it, please don't fall, and be aware that the route as drawn on the topo is probably 5.11. I was wigged on it. To keep this at 10a, follow the more obvious chalked traverse one roof lower than indicated.



Photos of Candelabra Slideshow Add Photo
Candelabra crack (5.10a)
BETA PHOTO: Candelabra crack (5.10a)
taking my time on a beautiful rap in the canyon
taking my time on a beautiful rap in the canyon
Comments on Candelabra Add Comment
Show which comments
By Erik
Aug 3, 2004

Leeper hangers and slings at anchor were replaced with good bolts and chains on 8/2/2004.

By Kai Ewert
Feb 22, 2008

Felt pretty burly for 5.10a, maybe because it's mostly TR'd?

The new Vogel Guide has the correct finish - traverse left or right after climbing to the top of the flake.

By JoshuaTreeRunner
From: Los Angeles
Oct 22, 2008

Easy to TR from rappel anchors. Fun climbing with something for everyone.

By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 23, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X

did't realize this was x rated, Looked like a cool 5.11! Happy to onsight!