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The route is an obvious shallow corner which becomes a detached, hanging, thin, right- facing flake. It MIGHT be solid, but it doesn't look that way. Falling on cams behind it is a proposal of dubious wisdom, at best. Climb up on a few moderate moves in the shallow right-facing corner to reach the hanging flake. Move up onto this flake with jams and liebacks to reach the top (5.9) and move up through the first of two 'blank' bulges to reach a decent horizontal feature (10a) traverse left (5.7) here or pull a second roof (5.11?) and then traverse left (5.11?) to reach a weakness that leads to the top. Vogel's book depicts the 5.11 option I described and seems to be in error.
Once up top, move back to the North to clip the fixed anchor to belay. This is the rap anchor for the wall and can be extended to form a TR-point if desired.
Best top-roped. The flake system can be 'protected' with dubous cams that might just rip-out and drop this 20-ton hanging flake on you.
If you lead it, please don't fall, and be aware that the route as drawn on the topo is probably 5.11. I was wigged on it. To keep this at 10a, follow the more obvious chalked traverse one roof lower than indicated.
BETA PHOTO: Candelabra crack (5.10a)
Aug 3, 2004
Leeper hangers and slings at anchor were replaced with good bolts and chains on 8/2/2004.
|By Kai Ewert|
Feb 22, 2008
Felt pretty burly for 5.10a, maybe because it's mostly TR'd?
The new Vogel Guide has the correct finish - traverse left or right after climbing to the top of the flake.
From: Los Angeles
Oct 22, 2008
Easy to TR from rappel anchors. Fun climbing with something for everyone.
|By Robbie Brown|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 23, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b X
did't realize this was x rated, Looked like a cool 5.11! Happy to onsight!