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Canada 


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Lisa Foster and Paul Kejla on the descent with Bug...

O Canada! 

It would be as difficult to sum up the climbing potential in Canada just as it would be to sum up that in the United States, unless you wanted to use broad terms like LOTS. From sea cliffs to urban crags, high altitude to bouldering, almost every type of climbing is available (except desert sandstone perhaps).

Rather than trying to describe it in this overview, let's describe it area by area and route by route, right here.


3,267 Total Routes


['4 Stars',441],['3 Stars',1189],['2 Stars',1025],['1 Star',381],['Bomb',37]
['<=5.6',198],['5.7',160],['5.8',213],['5.9',263],['5.10',597],['5.11',360],['5.12',202],['5.13',31],['>=5.14',9],['',0],['<=V1',201],['V2-3',375],['V4-5',219],['V6-7',125],['V8-9',82],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',25],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Canada:
Northwest Ridge   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c X     Trad, Alpine, 2400'   Selkirk Mountains : Mount Sir Donald
West Ridge   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c     Trad, Alpine, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Pigeon Spire
Klahanie Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Squamish : Shannon Falls
North East Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Bugaboo Spire
Skywalker   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 300'   Squamish : Shannon Falls
Diedre   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches   The Chief : The Apron
Northeast Buttress   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 25 pitches   Western Chilliwack Range : Mt. Slesse
Snake   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches   The Chief : The Apron
Penny Lane   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Smoke Bluffs : Penny Lane
Flying Circus   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Smoke Bluffs : Neat and Cool
Rock On   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   The Chief : The Apron
McTech Arete   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Angel's Crest   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 13 pitches   The Chief : The Sheriff's Badge
Beckey-Chouinard   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 2000'   Howser Towers : South Howser Tower
Exasperator   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   The Chief : Grand Wall Base Area
The Grand Wall   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c A0     Trad, Aid, 9 pitches, 1000'   The Chief : Grand Wall Area
Southeast Face   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 18 pitches, 2000'   The Cirque of the Unclimbab... : Lotus Flower Tower
Sunshine Crack   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 900'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Crime Of The Century   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   The Smoke Bluffs : Penny Lane
Freeway   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 11 pitches   The Chief : The Dihedrals
Browse More Classics in Canada

Featured Route For Canada
MOUNT BRYCE <br />NORTHEAST RIDGE <br />BRITISH COLUMBIA <br />contour interval: 100 feet <br />one kilometer grid <br /> <br />red - open logging roads <br />red/green - closed roads <br />green - no track <br />

Northeast Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Mod. Snow  North America : Canada : ... : Mount Bryce (3,507m)
INTRODUCTIONOne of the best ridge traverses in the Canadian Rockies. Outram's guide, Christian Kaufmann, was climbing at his limit and basically soloed the crux. The 1902 party approached up the Alexandria River to a camp at Cinema Lake. The central peak was bypassed to the south. APPROACH The Bush River Road begins near Donald, BC. Turn onto the Rice Brook Road at the 98 kilometer sign. Four kilometers of increasingly bad road lead to the decommissioning closure. Good 4w...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Canada Slideshow Add Photo
View of Pigeon Spire from the northeast. The West Ridge route follows the right skyline of the spire.
BETA PHOTO: View of Pigeon Spire from the northeast. The West ...
Agawa Canyon
Agawa Canyon
Mother of Pearl
Mother of Pearl
Kokanee Beer.
Kokanee Beer.
Mother of Pearl
Mother of Pearl
Canada!
Canada!
Profile in the Rockies!
Profile in the Rockies!
Comments on Canada Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Sep 13, 2007

Anybody have any info on New Brunswick climbing and/or ice climbing?

By skinner
From: Calgary, AB
Dec 15, 2007

In western Canada, (British Columbia & Alberta) Squamish and the Bugaboos are exceptional- world class destinations. However.. if you are able to get your head around the chossy limestone the makes up the majority of peaks, the infinite number of previously unclimbed lines could keep you occupied for several lifetimes.

By cliff thomas
Apr 15, 2009

I am planning a climbing trip to Banff. Am interested in beta about time of year to go, places to stay on the cheap, moderate climbing and perhaps an opportunity to find partners or good roped solo routes in that area. Thank you
Cliff Thomas
thomasci@msn.com

By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Apr 16, 2009

Cliff,

The time of year depends on what you want to do. The summer alpine season (all the classic north face ice routes) are best in August and September. Nice low altitude rock, mostly sport, can be found in the canyons around Canmore: Heart Creek, Cougar Canyon, Grassi Lakes, etc. The season for these is probably May to October. There are many moderate scrambles (Table Mtn., Cascade, Lady MacDonald) and climbs (Ha Ling, Yamnuska, etc.).

There are campgrounds in Banff and Lake Louise, and probably in Canmore. The Alpine Club of Canada's clubhouse is in Canmore and is a great place to stay. I think there are reciprocal agreements with other alpine clubs, or you can buy a membership, which can be worth it if you're staying a while. It's also a good place to meet people.

Hopefully you'll get some more detailed information from others. It has been a while since I've road-tripped there. You might also want to post in the forums.

By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Apr 17, 2009

Joe M sorry I'm a year and a half later but there is actually excellent rock and ice climbing in N-B.
The rock climbing is mostly trad in a wonderful granite setting called Cochrane Lane and the ice is just everywhere!

check out climbeasterncanada.com or www.beta-source.com/ for pics, info etc.

By curt hegel
Mar 21, 2010

good place for info/beta finding partners, etc. is Gravsports-ice.com run by Will Gadd. Ice season is running out, but the alpine/rock is starting soon.

By Matt Allshouse
Sep 13, 2010

I just won two free passes on Canada North Airlines...Anyone know good ice routes around Yellowkife,Norman Wells, or Iqaluit?