Can someone please explain this to me??
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Rock and Ice
So... is there just no possibility of rock climbing in this cave (or other dry-tooling areas)? I mean, doesn't the dry-tooling mess up otherwise good rock? I understand the need to practice dry-tooling and mixed climbing but I don't get climbing a route w/o any ice on it using ice tools. What's the deal? |
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Ryan Williams wrote:I mean, doesn't the dry-tooling mess up otherwise good rock?Even if it is bad rock, how does one justify a style of climbing that is guaranteed to mar the rock? |
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I thought the exact same thing as you did when I saw this. I would like to know what is so wrong with this rock that it cannot be climbed without the use of tools (which I can imagine destroys the rock). Where is the ethic behind dry tooling only? |
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Kevin O'Connor wrote:I thought the exact same thing as you did when I saw this. I would like to know what is so wrong with this rock that it cannot be climbed without the use of tools (which I can imagine destroys the rock). Where is the ethic behind dry tooling only?My question exactly. Anyone? Bueller? |
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too cold to climb without gloves on? |
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Wow, in some of the photos, Rock shoes with Tools, I am so confused? |
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Let the comments begin: |
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it's Ouray. |
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Did any of you morons(in a playful friendly tone) think to email Jason and ask him? It's as least as difficult as posting this thread. |
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I was dry tooling this morning when I woke up with morning wood. |
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If the rock is similar to everything else in Ouray then it's crappy rock that you wouldn't want to free climb anyways, as are most dry tooling areas. I know the photographer. I'll ask him next time I see him but in my experience I'm going to guess that's the reason people feel free to drytool. |
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So if I am correct they trust the rock enough to bolt it, but not enough to weight it with hands and feet? |
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also consider the rock type and how it fractures, in my limited experience with dry tooling in Ouray the placements for picks and crampons are far smaller than those used for hand holds and feet, similarly some of the roofs bolted in those pictures in combination with the holds described might make for the first 5.16 so get after it folks i guess. |
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It'd be like climbing a road cut. You could do it but why. There's places where there can be bolts placed. I'm sure it's a pain to find them though. |
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When did this "dry tooling" grading start? D11 - seriously? What's the difference between dry tooling and crack jumaring with a cam? |
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cjdrover wrote: What's the difference between dry tooling and crack jumaring with a cam?The difference is that crack jumaring is harder! |
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jmeizis wrote:It'd be like climbing a road cut. You could do it but why. There's places where there can be bolts placed. I'm sure it's a pain to find them though.This crag is no more of a road cut than half of the developed cliffs at Rifle. The rock in the photos is certainly good enough to rock climb. |
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mr.dobo wrote:Did any of you morons(in a playful friendly tone) think to email Jason and ask him? It's as least as difficult as posting this thread.I guess I would have but I thought that I'd get an answer pretty fast. I was kind of surprised to see that so many other people were also confused. I wasn't trying to start a debate or anything, just honestly curious. If the rock is of shitty quality then why would it be any more fun to climb on w/ tools than w/ your hands? And if the rock is of good quality but the features are too small to be climbed without tools... well, then that just sucks! Someone could climb it... |
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Dry stooling? |
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For me, I drytool in places like Ouray or Vail, to gain experience and confidence for mixed (ice and rock) routes in committing environments (i.e. RMNP in winter). It is a form of aid, but for me, it is a type of aid that is more physically engaging than dangling in aiders. I do both for different reasons. Try it sometime if you want to understand it. |
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k. riemondy wrote: For me, I drytool in places like Ouray or Vail, to gain experience and confidence for mixed (ice and rock) routes in committing environments (i.e. RMNP in winter).Very fair - but do you climb 45 degree overhanging caves in RMNP in winter - wearing rock shoes? Of course not. Anyways mostly agree with you, the mixed lines I've done in NH are all total garbage outside of winter and no one seems to really care. I just don't understand the R&I coverage. |