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 ADVANCED
The Frigate
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bowspirit T,TR 
Can Can T 
Code of the Sea TR 
Flying Dutchman T,TR 
Frigate "walk off" T 
Galleass T,TR 
Jib, The T,TR 
Pooper, The T 
Stern, The T 
Unnamed route 20 T,TR 
When Life Gives You Lemons...SQUEEZE THEM TO DEATH! T,TR 
Yasik's Project T,TR 

Can Can 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,020
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Jul 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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climbing over the roof

Description 

One of the better 5.5 leads at the Lake: nice moves, good pro, wonderful summit.

On the Southeast side of the Frigate, a crack system heads up between the two summits. From the base, move up a dihedral a little to the right, find some good pro, then move left and up into an alcove. Kick high! Getting into the alcove is probably the technical crux.

In the alcove, get some more bomber gear. Kick high! and pull around the little roof. Head up to the summit on the right (North).

Location 

On the Southeast side of the Frigate. "Walk off" (scramble) to the North.

Protection 

Medium to large nuts, a couple of medium sized hexes or cams.


Photos of Can Can Slideshow Add Photo
Shane cleaning up after Dan lead-climbed
Shane cleaning up after Dan lead-climbed
My belayer rappelling
My belayer rappelling
Eric P. leading "Can Can" on the Frigate...
Eric P. leading "Can Can" on the Frigate...
Nearing the top.
Nearing the top.
assessing the next move...
assessing the next move...
Fuzzy low on route.
Fuzzy low on route.

Comments on Can Can Add Comment
Show which comments
By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Aug 11, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Another great lead that's easy to protect. After setting pro for up and downward pull before starting off, the 1st piece I use is a #1 tricam (pinky) in a small pocket just before heading off left for the alcove below the slightly, overhanging fist-size crack. Moving up and into the crack (a couple of moves) is the crux of the climb. Down climb is off of the back side of the summit into the large gap between the Frigate and the main bluff (see unnamed walk off). From there a short traverse to north takes you to easy ledges (steps) to get back down to your pack.
By Chicagio
Jul 17, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

If you approach this from the northwest side (previous commenter refers to this as the walk-off, for leaders), it is easy enough climbing that you can set up top rope. A threaded sling and a #6 & #10 hex will do. The little roof move is a blast! Don't disturb any frogs when threading!
By Scott Greenhalgh
From: New Hartford, Iowa
Jun 1, 2014

There is a fun variation going through the right crack out of the roof in the 5.7 to 5.8 range.