Just curious, what volume do people aim for when doing campus board training? I've read "the making of a 'rockprodigy'" where 6-10 sets is indicated, each set being a trip up or down. Considering that gyms have boards of differing numbers of rungs, what do you aim for? Do you aim to get to the top? Do you aim for a set number of hand moves? Do you go up and down and back up again?

I've been doing my sets to near failure without a predetermined rep goal. Typically 8-10 sets, continuously (up, down, up, down, etc) with 5-7' rest between sets. After 6 sessions, I've seen improvement with precision/control, repetitions/volume, and ability to top the medium rungs (compared to not being able to make one move at all). I'm on board with campus training but I want to refine it to prevent overtraining and injury. At this point only my skin has suffered the consequences. Any recommendations?

I would aim for quality over quantity. That will vary from person-to-person. It is probably 8-10 sets (MAX) per session. You might not know until it is too late.

Personally, I don't down campus. The risk to reward ratio is too high. I only a campus for power. Therefore I focus on 1-3 hand movements.

The number of rungs and spacing is arbitrary in most gyms. Often chosen by people who know nothing about climbing or training for climbing. I would not use what is thrust upon me as my standards. I would create my own standards and benchmarks.

I track my inputs (campusing, et al) and my outputs (sending projects). If the outputs are going up, keeping riding my program. If the output don't go up, change inputs.

Thanks Brian. I invested a little more time with older training threads and see that others are in line with you. When I get back to campus training my volume/repetitions will be cut drastically. My skin will be very thankful.