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By JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Feb 8, 2013
Gunking
Will S wrote:
How's that? Smaller holds on the V3? Really?


The holds are smaller on the v3. I thought the v5 was a lot like the metolius simulator, lots of useless easy holds. The v3 takes all of the usable holds from the v5 and puts them in a compact package.

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By bowshaaa
Feb 9, 2013
great barrington
JohnWesely wrote:
The holds are smaller on the v3. I thought the v5 was a lot like the metolius simulator, lots of useless easy holds. The v3 takes all of the usable holds from the v5 and puts them in a compact package.



Has a lot of holds, really only need top and bottom ones, no slopers, and pinches are ok at best

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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Feb 14, 2013
OMG, I winz!!!
Progress on the campusing front! After about 5 sessions in the early summer and now 3 sessions in my current periodization cycle I can finally ladder! Last night I had a huge breakthrough and could consistently ladder the 1x with matched hands and then alternating hands. I could also ladder 2x okay for the first time. My best long move so far is 1-4-5(match) with either hand leading though I haven't tried 1-4-6 yet. I also tried 1-5 but couldn't latch. I also tried doubles a little but don't have the timing right yet.

I'm using the big rungs and going up only and dropping off for now but huge progress! I did play on the medium rungs a little and can ladder those too but I'm going to finish this round mostly on large to keep improving my technique.

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By bowshaaa
Feb 14, 2013
great barrington
Chris Plesko wrote:
Progress on the campusing front! After about 5 sessions in the early summer and now 3 sessions in my current periodization cycle I can finally ladder! Last night I had a huge breakthrough and could consistently ladder the 1x with matched hands and then alternating hands. I could also ladder 2x okay for the first time. My best long move so far is 1-4-5(match) with either hand leading though I haven't tried 1-4-6 yet. I also tried 1-5 but couldn't latch. I also tried doubles a little but don't have the timing right yet. I'm using the big rungs and going up only and dropping off for now but huge progress! I did play on the medium rungs a little and can ladder those too but I'm going to finish this round mostly on large to keep improving my technique.


Congrats! Glad to hear progress! How is it impacting your overall climbing ability? Improved?

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By LeeAB
Administrator
From ABQ, NM
Feb 14, 2013
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place t...
Chris Plesko wrote:
Progress on the campusing front! After about 5 sessions in the early summer and now 3 sessions in my current periodization cycle I can finally ladder! Last night I had a huge breakthrough and could consistently ladder the 1x with matched hands and then alternating hands. I could also ladder 2x okay for the first time. My best long move so far is 1-4-5(match) with either hand leading though I haven't tried 1-4-6 yet. I also tried 1-5 but couldn't latch. I also tried doubles a little but don't have the timing right yet.....


Chris, try starting on 1 and 2 then going to 5.
Doubles are really all about timing, you'll be able to do them all of a sudden, it's kind of weird.

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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Feb 15, 2013
OMG, I winz!!!
Thanks Lee, I'll try the stagger. For now learning the timing and technique is a huge part of it I can tell.

No known impact on climbing yet but I've got a 4 day weekend and my stitches are out (cut my shin bad a month ago) so I'll see how it goes. At the gym my flash/quick send level is increasing and mid 12s no longer have any stopper moves. Yes!

Before I started bouldering I got stopped at ~11a

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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Feb 15, 2013
OMG, I winz!!!
BTW I'm keeping my sessions short. Starting every 90 seconds and doing about 16 sets total in 24 minutes. WU is 40 min of progressive increases then 10 min rest. After campusing I rest ~20 minutes and then boulder or project routes.

As I get used to the training i will try a second set but for now max power is def gone after 1 set. So far my fingers and elbows are still happy and I know I still need plenty of core and movement training from real climbing.

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By bowshaaa
Feb 15, 2013
great barrington
Chris Plesko wrote:
BTW I'm keeping my sessions short. Starting every 90 seconds and doing about 16 sets total in 24 minutes. WU is 40 min of progressive increases then 10 min rest. After campusing I rest ~20 minutes and then boulder or project routes. As I get used to the training i will try a second set but for now max power is def gone after 1 set. So far my fingers and elbows are still happy and I know I still need plenty of core and movement training from real climbing.


That's good to keep the sessions short until your muscles and tendons are used to/strengthened for the longer sessions. Nice work!

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By LeeAB
Administrator
From ABQ, NM
Feb 16, 2013
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place t...
Chris Plesko wrote:
No known impact on climbing yet but I've got a 4 day weekend and my stitches are out (cut my shin bad a month ago) so I'll see how it goes.


Did you catch a peddle in your shin?

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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Feb 16, 2013
OMG, I winz!!!
LeeAB wrote:
Did you catch a peddle in your shin?


Not this time. Slipped on my bouldering warmup and put a big ass hole in my shin. 7 stitches later it was all better. Just baaaad luck.

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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Feb 17, 2013
OMG, I winz!!!
Sent a long term project today and made good progress on 2 more at the next level! Taking a rest day tomorrow and then back to the boulders on Tuesday if the weather is good enough.

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By bowshaaa
Feb 18, 2013
great barrington
Chris Plesko wrote:
Sent a long term project today and made good progress on 2 more at the next level! Taking a rest day tomorrow and then back to the boulders on Tuesday if the weather is good enough.


Tearin' it up! Congrats on the progress!

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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Feb 19, 2013
OMG, I winz!!!
For those following training progress, I sent my first V6 today. Crimpy, my style, whatever. I know V6 is still nothing but it was fun. My V4 plateau is officially busted and it's hard not to feel that the hangboarding and campus work helped.

Do I still have a ton of work to do learning technique? Yep. Am I going to keep training too? Yep. We'll see where it takes me. I'm going to have to get on a rope again soon.

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By bowshaaa
Feb 22, 2013
great barrington
Chris Plesko wrote:
For those following training progress, I sent my first V6 today. Crimpy, my style, whatever. I know V6 is still nothing but it was fun. My V4 plateau is officially busted and it's hard not to feel that the hangboarding and campus work helped. Do I still have a ton of work to do learning technique? Yep. Am I going to keep training too? Yep. We'll see where it takes me. I'm going to have to get on a rope again soon.


It's not what the grade means to someone else, it's what it means to you. Congrat's on the progress and keep the training going strong!

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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Mar 5, 2013
OMG, I winz!!!
Just another data point. After some serious sendage outside for me, sickness and fatigue knocked me back a peg. 8+ weeks of hard training left me tired. I wrapped up MaxR and I'm taking a little rest before starting PE. I'm planning on taking at least 3 rest days, if not 4 until I'm healthy and my fingers feel better. I don't have any pain but they're tired and a bit achey.

I had pretty huge gains so far this round and I'm taking a 2 trips in late March, early April to Moab and Joes to climb so after a rest, PE plus a touch of HYP/MaxR mixed in should see me ready to peak. Hoping for more V5's and V6's and maybe a 1 move V7 I've been working a bit.

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By bowshaaa
Mar 12, 2013
great barrington
Chris Plesko wrote:
.... PE plus a touch of HYP/MaxR mixed in should see me ready to peak. Hoping for more V5's and V6's and maybe a 1 move V7 I've been working a bit.


what is PE, HYP/MaxR?

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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Mar 12, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
bowshaaa, this explains everything rather well.

rockclimbing.com/Articles/Trai...

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By bowshaaa
Mar 13, 2013
great barrington
Jake Jones wrote:
bowshaaa, this explains everything rather well. rockclimbing.com/Articles/Trai...



Thanks Jake!

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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Mar 20, 2013
OMG, I winz!!!
Just about done with gym based PE, one more session tonight then off to the desert Sat AM. We'll see how the projects go in Moab for a week and then onsighting/flash focus in Joes early April. I'm curious if the dynamic aspect of campusing helps me hit the dyno on Circus Trick this time! After Joe's I'm going to focus on rope sessions now that it's light after work and see what I can do in the 12 range...

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