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Camptown Races (variation) 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ian Howell, Rick Thaler, '73 FFA: Charlie Lyon, Steve Dieckhoff, Bruce Carson, '75
Page Views: 530
Submitted By: Greg DeMatteo on Mar 20, 2008
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Description 

Climb the Classic (5.7) or any variation thereof that gets you to the 3rd pitch of the Classic. Start up the gorgeous right-facing dihedral, but at the bulge instead of cutting left and going over it, head right underneath the roof to the end.

I remember the climbing being technical and airy with some pretty exciting moves while looking at a potential swing into the corner.


Protection 

A rack for The Classic including nuts and cams from TCU's to #1 camalots for the Camptown Races variation.



Comments on Camptown Races (variation) Add Comment
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By BCramer
From: Prescott
Feb 1, 2010

FA: Ian Howell, Rick Thaler, '73 FFA: Charlie Lyon, Steve Dieckhoff, Bruce Carson, '75.

By Bobby Treadwell
From: Prescott, AZ
Sep 26, 2012

The undercling makes this route much easier.

By bob jensen
Oct 7, 2012

Surprised you could reach that for the undercling Bobby! HAHAHHAAHAHA! You've obviously healed?

By Bobby Treadwell
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 7, 2012

You know whats funny is that I didnt use the undercling haha. I saw the crimps and just went for it. Felt more like 5.11 without the undercling. Bob when are you coming to Prescott?