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Dogging my way up Campinini.
Campinini is just left of Geriatric Sex Maniacs from Mars and begins off of an obvious two foot tall boulder. The crux of this route is getting off the ground/boulder and past the second bolt where the difficulties ease until the final overhang. The start involves tip-toeing your left foot off of the boulder and bumping your right hand to a sloping dish while holding a crimp/undercling with the left. It looks possible, and very difficult, to begin climbing from the ground by using a very shallow left hand dish. There are a fun series of difficult moves through the second bolt where you reach bomber ledges and a good rest. The route then proceeds through the upper overhanging arete and finishes on anchors immediately to the right of the last bolt.
Due to a lack of traffic the top of this route is very loose and dirty. Get out of the way and expect a shower of rocks from the leader as they approach the top.
|By Jason Hedlund|
From: St. Michael, MN
Apr 30, 2008
I can't remember much about this route, other than not enjoying it. Really dirty climb.
|By randy baum|
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 8, 2009
this route blows. it's a total circle-jerk-one-move-chossfest of desperation. it's like vice squad covered in rime.
one person told me that this was the first route they did at red wing and that once they redpointed it, they considered never climbing again at red wing because they were afraid the other routes are like this shit pile.
|By Ben Bodenhamer|
From: Madras, OR
Nov 8, 2009
Funny Randy I was back in August and I now think that way about the whole crag. Never again Red Wang! What a chosspile...
|By Richard C|
Oct 6, 2010
Totally agree with Randy, at one point my hand was in sand clipping near the top, not just sandy holds, but like I am climbing the beach, level of sand. The first two bolts are kind of cool though, not however cool enough to cancel out the top.