Camping/dirtbag scene around SLC

I'm currently on a road trip, staying in Indian Creek, and the climbing in the Wasatch area looks really appealing to me. Little Cottonwood Canyon looks especially good, but I'm also interested in checking out Big Cottonwood, Maple, or other areas as well.

How is the camping in these areas (price, availability, proximity to climbs), and how easy is it to meet climbing partners? Ideally, I'd like to stay for about a week between 4/17 and 4/24, but I've heard that logistics can be tricky for meeting people in the SLC area. Is it worth coming out to see the awesome-looking rock in this area, or would I be better off just staying in Moab for another week?

Thanks!
Mark

Mark Straub wrote:How is the camping in these areas (price, availability, proximity to climbs), and how easy is it to meet climbing partners? Ideally, I'd like to stay for about a week between 4/17 and 4/24, but I've heard that logistics can be tricky for meeting people in the SLC area. Is it worth coming out to see the awesome-looking rock in this area, or would I be better off just staying in Moab for another week? Thanks! Mark

Until the snow melts off a bit more, the camping won't be open. Can be difficult to "dirt bag" it in LCC and/or BCC. Easier to drive down and stay in a Walmart parking lot where you might get checked out, but, won't be asked to leave.

Fair bit of smash and grab in the local canyons. Visiting climbers shouldn't leave ANYTHING of value in sight in their car. Grabbed some folks on the way to some bouldering last year who had out of state plates and a laptop in full view in the front of their car. This situation has led to the local canyon patrol checking out all parked cars especially late at night.

Remember too, LCC and BCC are watersheds so no dogs.

As a local Wasatch climber I support your decision to sample the rock in this area! Maple Canyon makes for an interesting experience in getting pumped on cobbles. Good steep limestone in American Fork. My favorite, splitter granite in LCC, and funky quartzite in BCC, plus much more. The dirtbag scene might be a bit tough, +1 for Wal-Mart being a viable option. I'd be happy to offer my floor for at least a night or two, and am available almost every day to climb. There is a great climbing community here, and with such close access to the canyons from the city, you will have no trouble finding a partner. Worst case scenario, head up Little Cottonwood and throw a pad beneath some of the amazing granite boulders scattered along the road.

Also, highly recommend checking out Fifth Water Hot Springs aka Diamond Fork on your way up from Moab. A quick search should yield some good directions, it's about an hour hike in from the trailhead to some of the most amazing hot pools along a cold clear creek in a wilderness setting, you could even camp out there. Not much better R+R from climbing in the desert than that.

I'm in the area from Idaho, dirtbagging as well. I stayed in the Lowe's parking lot a couple nights (right by wal-mart, but no annoying lights!) near the mouth of the canyon. I didn't even get checked out. I haven't found any good camping areas further up the canyon so now I'm couch surfing for a bit in Sandy.

As far as partners go, I'll probably be here all week.

+1 For the boulders if you have to go solo.

There is a Park n' Ride lot on the north side of the road driving up the canyon that could be a good spot to meet some new climbing buddies.

While the Wasatch is great it isn't really friendly for dirtbagging climbers. There is no dispersed camping within 30 minutes of the crags. None of the campgrounds will be open until very close to memorial day.

If you can wrangle the logistics (find somewhere to crash) there is great climbing to be had. If not, the Creek is far from the worst place to spend another week.

I've been here living out of my car for about a month now and it seems that the walmart on foothill and the park and ride at the mouth of the canyon's seem to work out great. Hope that helps you out.

Agree with the other's, I'm grateful to live here and not have to worry as much about lack of camping. The weather up here sucks till the weekend anyhow. Hopefully depending on how much snow dumps tonight the lower canyons will be good to climb by Saturday. Good luck to you. If you need any partners while in the area I'm happy to show you some of my fav crags. Just shoot me a message. I have afternoons off. I also have a pass National Parks pass that is good till the end of the month that gives free access to American Fork. +1 for awesome limestone!

I lived in walmart parking lots for almost a month in slc last fall. It's a short drive to the climbing. Not a big deal.

All the responses I'm getting don't look too good- I don't have the capability to sleep in my car, unfortunately (I sleep in a tent), so this is a tough one. I'd sure love to see the area, but without the option of anywhere to sleep, and at high risk of gear being stolen, I might just have to pass this opportunity up. Someday, maybe!

Thanks for the responses everyone, and have fun in the Wasatch!

Sorry bro, if I had a yard you could totally use it to camp out. I'm stuck with my wife in a small apartment! Best of luck to you!

I live at the mouth of LCC with a couple dudes who I'm sure wouldn't mind you crashing in the back yard. Just remember to put the hot tub cover back on and promise us you won't booty any of our booty. PM me for details, I'll shoot them some texts. Climbing in the Cottonwoods is pretty good right now, just watch for ticks!!

Thought I would keep this thread going, since it is already on the topic of Utah dirt bagging. My wife and I are headed that way this Friday the 24th for a wedding in Capital Reef. We probably won't be climbing until next Sunday, Monday. We're thinking about heading to Maple Canyon to climb for a few days. I have never been there and I have heard the campground doesn't open until May. We camp out of my truck. Is there any other spots nearby Maple Canyon for truck camping? Also how is the weather for climbing in Maple currently? Should we go somewhere else and if so what are some ideas? Thanks for any suggestions.

Maple Canyon's campground reservation is not taking reservations, but the campground is "open". Pick an open spot and drop the fee in the box.

Calling for rain this weekend and cold temps.

SMR wrote:Maple Canyon's campground reservation is not taking reservations, but the campground is "open". Pick an open spot and drop the fee in the box. Calling for rain this weekend and cold temps.

I thought maybe the gates to the campgrounds were closed but if I can still pull in and camp with self pay, is good to know. thanks for the info. As far as weather we will just have to wait and see what it does. If it's to cold and rainy we might head farther south down to St George or somewhere.