Decent route that adds two pitches to the Kor Route. I recall some pretty thin nailing and hand crack climbing.
It takes the most prominent line to the notch between the Dolomite and Lighthouse towers.
We used pitons (few), tri-cams and nuts.
|By Bryan Ferguson|
From: Castle Rock
May 15, 2008
We felt confident at the time (1984) that this was an FA to the notch. We found no piton scarring or other evidence of climbers before us. It's disputed so we would certainly defer to the great one - Kor himself!
|By Kelsey Sheely|
From: Durango, CO
Feb 21, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
We didn't see any one "prominent" line when we headed up to the base. I think we could have taken at least 3 or 4 different routes to the notch. After some deliberation we decided on one that seemed to have a few pin scars and seemed like the most promising. If we had more #3 nuts, it seems the route we chose would have been much more secure. As it was, I think A3 is about right. It also seemed to me that it could definitely be free climbed by someone a bit more skilled than myself. I would say P1 is in the 5.12 range and P2 is 5.11.