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Campfire Girls 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Thomas Kelley, Joe Lackey
Page Views: 440
Submitted By: JohnWesely on Jul 8, 2012
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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A "casual" entryway into one of NC's most feared cliffs. After negotiating some steep friction, clip the first of three beefy bolts and step into a shallow groove. After mantling up on a cool quartz jug, give a sigh of relief as you clip the second bolt and thank the heavens that you have about a hundred feet of climbing ahead of you with little risk of ground fall. After the bolts end, pad up a deeper water groove, which is initially well protected. While the climbing after the pro ends only occasionally breaks into 5.7 territory, the 50 foot plus run out will keep you on your toes.

The second pitch goes at 5.10, looks sort of inconsistent, and features rusty old bolts. Get after it!


Location 

Obvious water streak then groove with three bolts roughly 20 feet apart. Last route on the first section on the wall.


Protection 

3 bolts, a smattering of cams.



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By Drew Dekle
Oct 1, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13

Just replaced 3 bolts on the second pitch with Jeep yesterday - second pitch is 5.10b or so - - the first pitch is 5.9 but getting to the first couple of bolts is a little heady and there is about 70 feet of runout 5.6 mid-pitch. The moves between the first thin pro on pitch two and the first bolt is really super heady and a fall would really suck here - - it's all there, you just have to focus on what you're doing and confidently climb but if 5.9 is your grade, try Paralleling at 5.10a - this route will give solid 5.10 climbers a good scare if they don't have the friction game in play. Not sure why this route is labeled 5.9 on this site - guidebook has it as 5.10 and there are several 5.10 moves over gear on the second pitch for sure.

By Drew Dekle
Oct 1, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13

Oh, first ascent was Thomas Kelly

By Drew Dekle
Nov 26, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13

First Ascent was THOMAS KELLY - NOT JEEP - GRADE IS AT LEAST 5.10B - NOT 5.9

By Scott Perkins
Jan 1, 2013

IMO pitch two is the much better pitch, and is solid 5.10. Pitch one has a 5.9 crux but mostly its a long run on easier gound(5.7ish).
Thanks for replacing those bolts!

By thomas kelley
Jul 25, 2013

Joe Lackey and I did the first ascent.