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Campanile Esloveno

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Campanile Esloveno  


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Administrators: TYeary, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Sirius on Apr 14, 2008
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Ben Deering leading off on the first pitch of Imag...

Description 

Referred to as a "mini Trango Tower" by an imaginative Brazilian crew in 2004, the Campanille Esloveno is a beautiful and imposing tower of clean, golden granite perched on the south rim of Frey's southern-most cirque. The summit is a slender fin of rock that will fit 2/3 people tops, and offers stunning 360 views of the Tronador Volcano, the glaciated lakes of greater Bariloche, and the arc of the Patagonian Andes bending south. A position and a view you won't soon forget.

Rock quality is at the Holy Shit level. The classic position and the dynamite quality of the routes make the Campanille a popular destination - an early start is the ticket.

The Campanille is home to some of the finer climbs in the area, including the classics Buch-Goin and Imagínate.

Getting There 

From Laguna Tomcek, pass up and through the col separating the two cirques; follow a trail trending S-SW from the bench as it ascends through vegetation into the scree and slowly winds its way toward and then below the obvious Cohete Lunar formation.

Switchback right, passing some 3rd/4th class, and keep your eyes on the "mini-Trango" looking spire high above you and south of the Torre Principal. It will loom over you as you pass through amazing boulder fields (huge potential for problems) and finally up the final scree slopes to the base. 1.5-3 hrs, start early to beat the crowds.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.7 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Campanile Esloveno:
Imagínate   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches   
Fonrouge-Bertoncelj   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 380'   
Browse More Classics in Campanile Esloveno

Featured Route For Campanile Esloveno
Ben Deering leading off on the first pitch of Imaginate on the Campanile.

Imagínate 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  South America : Argentina : ... : Campanile Esloveno
One of the best climbs at Frey? Pitch 1: short; crack to two bolt friction face. Belay on ledge at slung block. 5. P2: Wild and steep climbing up queer features not usually found in granite. Pro is tricky at the start, as much of the rock sounds hollow. After the steep part, a thin face leads to the third belay halfway up the huge, right-facing crescent feature. 6a. P3: Follow the crescent as it widens into a layback and then undercling flake. Not much for pro until you turn the corner...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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By David Appelhans
From: Lafayette
Sep 14, 2009
IMO this is the best spire in Frey. We did Fonrouge-Bertoncelj on Christmas day. Standing atop the tiny summit of this tower with not a soul around was a great Christmas present.