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Pitch 6 on Camp Farm just before heading out left ...
Most likely one of the most climbed routes in the valley due to its proximity to the camping. I found the climb to have some really good pitches, and some dirty pitches with lack-luster climbing.
P1: You have two options for the 1st pitch, either one of which will be the crux of the route. The original starts in a small left facing dihedral (that is part of a large arc) then moves right onto a slab following bolts. This way is only 11a, but supposedly a little more runout. A few smaller pieces are needed for the first 20m before the bolts. The other option (and I was told the better option) is to start right in the middle below the arc, climbing slab, making a crux move at the arc (11c), and continuing on nice edges to a ledge. Bring two of your smallest cams for just below the arc, and a lot of draws. Both options will require a little bit of simul climbing. 11c 62m
P2: A fun cruiser pitch up more slab/face past bolts and some smaller gear. 5.9 40m
P3: Either head up slightly left climbing to a ledge and traverse right to the base of a dihedral and set up a gear belay or head right into the obvious dihedral climbing to the base of the dihedral above. Either way will be dirty. 5.9 35m
P4: This was my favorite pitch of the route. Continue up the dihedral and move left up a slab at the obvious bolts to a bolted anchor. A 3.5 camalot was nice for this pitch. 10c 35m
P5: Climb up the right facing dihedral, with the crux climbing through the vegetation. 10a 35m
P6: Climb left into a a new dihedral, continue up the dihedral keeping an eye out to your left for a traverse across the face to a crack, which leads to more face climbing via a bolt or two. 10a 50m
P7: Walk across the big ledge to your left and set up a new belay in the trees. Down climb through the trees for ~8m and traverse into the obvious crack system, follow this to anchors. This pitch is worth the hassle at the beginning, its pretty good! 10a 45m
Rap the route with double 60m's
Once the trail hits the wall make a left, the route will be obvious at the first clearing you come to.
A double set of cams up to a 2 with one 3 and 3.5, nuts, and draws would be plenty.
BETA PHOTO: Photo of the Topo for Camp Farm, from Daniel's ref...
Straight up start, in the wet. Pull straight over...
BETA PHOTO: Original Camp Farm Topo: FA Daniel Seeliger and An...
Pitch 7 of Camp Farm. Classic.
1st pitch going up the original start.
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 14, 2009
yeah Daniel put up Camp Farm. Cool route is heady when the first pitch has running water!
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Mar 4, 2011
Despite some of the beta found here, what's tiny/micro in terms of cams is relative. I think I placed a red and yellow C3 to protect the moves to the base of the bulge on the first pitch and clipped a bolt before what I thought to be the hardest moves pulling over the bulge.
From: Somerville, MA
Feb 10, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fun - but a chore to rap down.
By Jordan Collins
From: South Lake Tahoe
Jun 22, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
I think a chore to rap down is kind of a stretch. All bolted anchors. The last rap is the only chore... if you rap to climbers left from the top of the slab you can get into a gully with one rope. if you have two ropes you can basically hit the bottom.