|Camp Bird Road
When you get tired of the 100 foots pitches, the gaggle of classes, and all the telephoto lenses in the Uncompaghre Gorge, keep heading up the road to the beautiful lines that surround the Camp Bird Road. There's stuff for everybody here with easy and sunny lines like Chockstone Chimney and Slip Slidin' Away to mega classics like Birdbrain Boulevard. If it's cold you can climb in the sun, if the weather is moderate and your feelin' frisky, head into the shade and try Birdbrain.
Starting looking down Camp Bird Mine Road:
A. Wake Up Call, M5+ R, 5p, 900', gear.
B. Tasty Talks, 8 M5 R, 8p, 1400', gear.
A. Hangover Helper, WI5, 1p, 110'.
A. Fall Creek, WI4, 1000'.
B. Out of the Mainstream, WI4-5, 1100'.
C. Unknown, WI5- M6 R, 7p, 1000'.
D. Attractive Hazard, 10 WI4-5 M6, 8p, 1200', gear.
E. The Ribbon, WI4, 4p, 500'.
F? Walkin' the Line, WI5 M6, 1000'.
G? Desperado , M6, 4p, 800', gear.
H. Birdbrain Boulevard, WI5 M5-6, 7p, 1100'.
I. Dirty Minds, 9 M6, 4p, 800', gear.
J. Racing Stripe (Right), WI5 M6, 4p, 800', gear.
K. O'Donnell Route, WI4, 2p, 225'.
L1. The Demon, WI6 M7 variation.
L2. The Talisman, WI6+ M7. 3p, 600'.
M. Camp Bird Mine Pillars, WI4-5, 100'.
Sneffels Creek Canyon Area
A. Scenic Cruise, WI4, 130'.
B. Sneffels Creek Sheet, WI4, 100'.
C. Sneffles Creek Pillar, WI5, 50'.
D. Potosi Peak Couloirs, WI4-5, 1000'.
A? Thin Slice, WI4-5, 2p, 300'.
B? 99 Problems, M5-, 1p, 50', gear.
C. Chockstone Chimney, WI3-4 R, 2p.
above B. Skillet's Revenge, WI4, 1p, 50'.
D. M7 Crack, M7, 1p, 110, gear.
E. Mile 4, M6, 1p, 30', bolts.
F. Weak and the Weary, 8 M5+ R, 2p, 300', gear.
G. Chock Up Another One, WI3-4, 1p, 200'.
H. AC/DC, WI5+ M6, 200'.
I. M6 Corner, WI4+ M6, 2p, 200'.
J. Slippery When Wet, WI4, 1-2p, 100'.
K. Heart of Darkness, WI5, 160'.
L. Slip Slidin' Away, WI4, 2p, 200'.
M. Shattered Dreams, WI5+ M8, 1p, 70'.
N. Fractured Fairytales, M6+, 1p, 100'.
O1. The Sky is Falling, M9+, 1p, 90'.
O2. Tourist Trap, WI4-5 M5, 1p, 80'.
P. Another Climb, WI3-4, 100'.
Q. Chopped Suey, WI5, 160'.
R. Choppo's Chimney, WI4-5, 1p, 190'.
S. Killer Pillar, WI5+ M5+ R, 1p, 160'.
T. Going Retro, M6, 1p, 50'.
U. The Local Scoop, M9, 1p, 50'.
V. The Skylight, WI5 M5, 3p, 300'.
W. Dumpster Diver, M5, 1p, 55'.
X. Maid to Order, M7+, 1p, 60'.
Y. Unknown, M7, .
Z. The Cleft, WI3, 1p, 200'.
AA. Road Warrior aka Duncan's Other Route, WI4-5 M6, 200'.
BB. Sans Nom, WI4 M5, 220'.
CC. Ass in Space, M8, 80'.
DD. Dirty Bird, WI3 M9-, 1p, 110', screws & bolts.
A. Cavegina, M8+, 1p, 60'.
B. Troglodyte, M9, 1p, 100'.
C. Goldline, M10, 1p, 100'.
D. Fistful of Steel, M10, 1p, 100'.
E. Cinammon & Cider, M11, 1p.
F. Senator Gulch, WI3-4, 1p, 100', open!
G. Weekhawken Creek, WI3-5.
Head South from town (Ouray) and turn off onto the Camp Bird Road within 1/2 mile. This road can be death so watch out. Most of the time the county plows it but when the avalanches are booming there's nothing to do but hang out at the Groundskeeper for a third round of 'spro or head to the Gorge. Follow the CB road to where it's usually closed at Senator Gulch. 1/2 mile of hiking up the moderate road will get you to the Skylight area. If you're heading to the Ribbon/Birdbrain area, drop down into the main drainage then contour up to the start of the routes. You did check the avalanche danger, didn't you? They just boom down from the collection basin directly above the Ribbon so if you didn't get recent conditions while in town, it's not a bad idea to hike up the road for a visual. At worst, you'll wast five minutes--at best, you'll save your life.
Browse More Classics in Camp Bird Road
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Camp Bird Road:
M6 Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 30 feet
WI4+ M4-5 Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, Grade II
Featured Route For Camp Bird Road
WI4+ M4-5 CO
: CO Ice & Mixed
: ... : Camp Bird Road
About 15 minutes up the road from where you leave your car below Senator Gulch, you'll start to see ice on your right. Most of it forms up in clefts in the cliff. The Skylight is the prominent double-tiered route with the big chockstone defending the top of the first tier. This area is one of the few ice climbimg areas on the planet where you actually belay in the road. P1 is easier than it looks and climbs the sometimes thin ice to the chockstone. Plug in a cam and layback left around it. Belay...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Powder slide from the approach to Choppo's Chimney...
View towards Ouray.
The Talisman in fat conditions.
Sunset view of Camp Bird road.
Hiking up Camp Bird Road in Ouray, CO.
|Comments on Camp Bird Road
|By Malcolm Daly|
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 7, 2001
Report from Jim Donini: Skylight is in; first pitch is all ice. Second pitch is thin but do-able. Choppo's is fat. Nothing going on by the Ribbon/Bridalveil.
|By Michael Komarnitsky|
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 5, 2002
Bill Ducat wrote us to say: "Please remove all references to the conditions of Senator Gulch. My family owns the land, and the climb is closed for liability reasons. Thanks, we are starting to get very annoyed about all the people walking by our "posted" signs, and good condition reports do not help the situation :) Do you have any recommendations on how we could get the word out that we are serious about the falls being closed?"
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Jan 8, 2008
What is the name of the frozen waterfall on the right side of the road, back in the little side drainage,at the base of the switchbacks?
Is it listed here? what's it rated? Seemed like about 90ft tall.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jan 8, 2008
Scott, I believe you are referring to Senator Gulch. If so, it's on private land. Access has been an issue. Previously, there was a description & the owners requested we delete the information (see above)...even though it is already described in other ice guidebooks.
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Jan 8, 2008
Thanks Leo, maybe I should leave this question up here because I wasn't certain what "Senator Gulch" was in the previous comments. We used to call that Hidden Falls, along with the plethora of "Hidden Falls" on the planet.
|By Doug Redosh|
From: golden, CO
Feb 8, 2008
By "town" in the description, I assume this means Ouray?
|By erik rieger|
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 26, 2013
Some (new) potential access issues are brewing up the road with the mine. Keep a closer eye on your gear when leaving it at the base of a route than you might have in the past.
Mar 2, 2013
+1 what Erik said, please read the Watch article cited above. Please yield to the traffic and please do not park right in front of the "Road Closed" gate, but rather park in the designated parking pullout on the left.