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Camp Bird Road
Millet - Okto 2 Climbing Shoe

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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
99 Problems 
Attractive Hazard 
Bird Brain Boulevard 
Cavegina 
Chock Up Another One 
Chockstone Chimney 
Choppo's Chimney 
Cinnamon and Cider 
Cleft, The 
Desperado  
Dirty Bird 
Dirty Minds 
Dumpster Diver 
Fistful of Steel 
Fractured Fairytales 
Going Retro 
Goldline 
House/Kennedy Chimney, The 
Killer Pillar 
Local Scoop, The 
M6 Corner 
M7 Crack 
Maid to Order 
Mile 4 
Negligent Behavior 
O'Donnell's Route 
Racing Stripe (Right) 
Ribbon, The 
Senator Gulch 
Shattered Dreams 
Skillet's Revenge 
Sky is Falling, The 
Skylight 
Slip Sliding Away 
Slippery When Wet 
Talisman, The 
Tasty Talks 
Tourist Trap 
Troglodyte 
Wake Up Call 
Weak and the Weary 
Unsorted Routes:

Camp Bird Road 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 144,252. Good page? (1 like)   
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Malcolm Daly on Nov 30, 1999

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 

Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu
Rain
55° | 30°
Chance Rain
50° | 34°
Partly Cloudy
54° | 37°
Chance of Rain
61° | 36°
Clear
66° | 36°
Yield to mining vehicle traffic MORE INFO >>>


BETA PHOTO

Description 

When you get tired of the 100 foots pitches, the gaggle of classes, and all the telephoto lenses in the Uncompaghre Gorge, keep heading up the road to the beautiful lines that surround the Camp Bird Road. There's stuff for everybody here with easy and sunny lines like Chockstone Chimney and Slip Slidin' Away to mega classics like Birdbrain Boulevard. If it's cold you can climb in the sun, if the weather is moderate and your feelin' frisky, head into the shade and try Birdbrain.


L->R: 

Starting looking down Camp Bird Mine Road:

A. Wake Up Call, M5+ R, 5p, 900', gear.
B. Tasty Talks, 8 M5 R, 8p, 1400', gear.

A. Hangover Helper, WI5, 1p, 110'.

Ribbon Area
A. Fall Creek, WI4, 1000'.
B. Out of the Mainstream, WI4-5, 1100'.
C. Unknown, WI5- M6 R, 7p, 1000'.
D. Attractive Hazard, 10 WI4-5 M6, 8p, 1200', gear.
E. The Ribbon, WI4, 4p, 500'.
F? Walkin' the Line, WI5 M6, 1000'.
G? Desperado , M6, 4p, 800', gear.
H. Birdbrain Boulevard, WI5 M5-6, 7p, 1100'.
I. Dirty Minds, 9 M6, 4p, 800', gear.
J. Racing Stripe (Right), WI5 M6, 4p, 800', gear.

Talisman area
K. O'Donnell Route, WI4, 2p, 225'.
L1. The Demon, WI6 M7 variation.
L2. The Talisman, WI6+ M7. 3p, 600'.

M. Camp Bird Mine Pillars, WI4-5, 100'.

Sneffels Creek Canyon Area
A. Scenic Cruise, WI4, 130'.
B. Sneffels Creek Sheet, WI4, 100'.
C. Sneffles Creek Pillar, WI5, 50'.
D. Potosi Peak Couloirs, WI4-5, 1000'.

Skylight area
A? Thin Slice, WI4-5, 2p, 300'.
B? 99 Problems, M5-, 1p, 50', gear.
C. Chockstone Chimney, WI3-4 R, 2p.
above B. Skillet's Revenge, WI4, 1p, 50'.
D. M7 Crack, M7, 1p, 110, gear.
E. Mile 4, M6, 1p, 30', bolts.
F. Weak and the Weary, 8 M5+ R, 2p, 300', gear.
G. Chock Up Another One, WI3-4, 1p, 200'.

H. AC/DC, WI5+ M6, 200'.
I. M6 Corner, WI4+ M6, 2p, 200'.
J. Slippery When Wet, WI4, 1-2p, 100'.
K. Heart of Darkness, WI5, 160'.

L. Slip Slidin' Away, WI4, 2p, 200'.

M. Shattered Dreams, WI5+ M8, 1p, 70'.
N. Fractured Fairytales, M6+, 1p, 100'.
O1. The Sky is Falling, M9+, 1p, 90'.
O2. Tourist Trap, WI4-5 M5, 1p, 80'.

P. Another Climb, WI3-4, 100'.

Q. Chopped Suey, WI5, 160'.
R. Choppo's Chimney, WI4-5, 1p, 190'.
S. Killer Pillar, WI5+ M5+ R, 1p, 160'.

T. Going Retro, M6, 1p, 50'.
U. The Local Scoop, M9, 1p, 50'.
V. The Skylight, WI5 M5, 3p, 300'.

W. Dumpster Diver, M5, 1p, 55'.

X. Maid to Order, M7+, 1p, 60'.
Y. Unknown, M7, .

Z. The Cleft, WI3, 1p, 200'.

AA. Road Warrior aka Duncan's Other Route, WI4-5 M6, 200'.
BB. Sans Nom, WI4 M5, 220'.
CC. Ass in Space, M8, 80'.
DD. Dirty Bird, WI3 M9-, 1p, 110', screws & bolts.

Poser's Lounge
A. Cavegina, M8+, 1p, 60'.
B. Troglodyte, M9, 1p, 100'.
C. Goldline, M10, 1p, 100'.
D. Fistful of Steel, M10, 1p, 100'.
E. Cinammon & Cider, M11, 1p.

F. Senator Gulch, WI3-4, 1p, 100', open!
G. Weekhawken Creek, WI3-5.


Getting There 

Head South from town (Ouray) and turn off onto the Camp Bird Road within 1/2 mile. This road can be death so watch out. Most of the time the county plows it but when the avalanches are booming there's nothing to do but hang out at the Groundskeeper for a third round of 'spro or head to the Gorge. Follow the CB road to where it's usually closed at Senator Gulch. 1/2 mile of hiking up the moderate road will get you to the Skylight area. If you're heading to the Ribbon/Birdbrain area, drop down into the main drainage then contour up to the start of the routes. You did check the avalanche danger, didn't you? They just boom down from the collection basin directly above the Ribbon so if you didn't get recent conditions while in town, it's not a bad idea to hike up the road for a visual. At worst, you'll wast five minutes--at best, you'll save your life.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Camp Bird Road:
Skillet's Revenge   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Senator Gulch   WI3-4     Trad, TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Tourist Trap   WI4+ M5     Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
The Local Scoop   M7     Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Mile 4   M6     Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 30 feet   
Maid to Order   M7     Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Dumpster Diver   M5     Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 55 feet   
Chockstone Chimney   WI3-4 R     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, Grade II   
Troglodyte   M9     Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
The Ribbon   WI4     Trad, Ice, 4 pitches   
The Talisman   WI6 M6     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, Grade IV   
Bird Brain Boulevard   WI5 M6     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 7 pitches, Grade IV   
Choppo's Chimney   WI4-5     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 190 feet, Grade II   
Killer Pillar   WI5-6 M5+ R     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch   
Slippery When Wet   WI4     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, Grade II   
Slip Sliding Away   WI4-     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 200 feet, Grade II   
Skylight   WI4+ M4-5     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, Grade II   
Browse More Classics in Camp Bird Road

Featured Route For Camp Bird Road
Leo leading P1 2/20/05 in fatter conditions.

Skylight WI4+ M4-5  CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Camp Bird Road
About 15 minutes up the road from where you leave your car below Senator Gulch, you'll start to see ice on your right. Most of it forms up in clefts in the cliff. The Skylight is the prominent double-tiered route with the big chockstone defending the top of the first tier. This area is one of the few ice climbimg areas on the planet where you actually belay in the road. P1 is easier than it looks and climbs the sometimes thin ice to the chockstone. Plug in a cam and layback left around it. Belay...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Camp Bird Road Slideshow Add Photo
Powder slide from the approach to Choppo's Chimney. March, 2006.

Powder slide from the approach to Choppo's Chimney...

View towards Ouray.

View towards Ouray.

The Talisman in fat conditions.

The Talisman in fat conditions.

Sunset view of Camp Bird road.

Sunset view of Camp Bird road.

Hiking up Camp Bird Road in Ouray, CO.

Hiking up Camp Bird Road in Ouray, CO.


Comments on Camp Bird Road Add Comment
Show which comments
By Malcolm Daly
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 7, 2001

Report from Jim Donini: Skylight is in; first pitch is all ice. Second pitch is thin but do-able. Choppo's is fat. Nothing going on by the Ribbon/Bridalveil.

By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 5, 2002

Bill Ducat wrote us to say: "Please remove all references to the conditions of Senator Gulch. My family owns the land, and the climb is closed for liability reasons. Thanks, we are starting to get very annoyed about all the people walking by our "posted" signs, and good condition reports do not help the situation :) Do you have any recommendations on how we could get the word out that we are serious about the falls being closed?"

By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Jan 8, 2008

What is the name of the frozen waterfall on the right side of the road, back in the little side drainage,at the base of the switchbacks?
Is it listed here? what's it rated? Seemed like about 90ft tall.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jan 8, 2008

Scott, I believe you are referring to Senator Gulch. If so, it's on private land. Access has been an issue. Previously, there was a description & the owners requested we delete the information (see above)...even though it is already described in other ice guidebooks.

By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Jan 8, 2008

Thanks Leo, maybe I should leave this question up here because I wasn't certain what "Senator Gulch" was in the previous comments. We used to call that Hidden Falls, along with the plethora of "Hidden Falls" on the planet.

By Doug Redosh
From: golden, CO
Feb 8, 2008

By "town" in the description, I assume this means Ouray?

By erik rieger
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 26, 2013

Some (new) potential access issues are brewing up the road with the mine. Keep a closer eye on your gear when leaving it at the base of a route than you might have in the past.

By doligo
Mar 2, 2013

+1 what Erik said, please read the Watch article cited above. Please yield to the traffic and please do not park right in front of the "Road Closed" gate, but rather park in the designated parking pullout on the left.